Chapter 23.

Loughshinny,

an inlet of about a quarter of a mile square, affording, perhaps, the very best natural situation for a harbour along the whole coast of Leinster, and an excellent roadstead in all but east winds. Near it, on the sea coast, is a petrifying spring that deposits large incrustations of various figures on the rocks along which it [439] dribbles. These incrustations evince their calcareous nature by fermenting strongly with spirit of vitriol, and in other appearances correspond exactly with spar or limestone. [Rutty’s Mineral Waters, p. 493.] Fine crystals are also found in an adjacent cliff. There are likewise on the coast of this line large rocks of the Irish slate, *lapis Hibernicus. Grey *radiated manganese ore is met with, and a copper mine, formerly worked here, has been recently inspected, with the object of ascertaining the propriety of applying more extensive capital and improved machinery to its productions. Sea lungwort, *pulmonaria maritima, *with other plants and weeds of the sea, abound along this shore.

In 1542 George, son of Richard de la Hoyde, of Lough Shinny, had livery of seisin of his father’s possessions in Phepoestown, Irishtown, Gallanstown, Dunabate, Lough Shinny, Crumlin, Lamletter, Ballybetagh, &c. In 1637 Anthony de la Hoyde was seised of 117a. in Dunabate, l00a. in Tankardstown in the parish of Balrothery, 145a. in Lough Shinny and Thomastown in the parish of Lusk, all which he subsequently mortgaged, but forfeited his equity of redemption in the confiscations of 1641.

In 1666 the Duke of Ormond had a grant of *(inter alia) *Ballyconny, 469a., Heathstown, 134a., Ballykea, 545a., Kinure, 594a., and Thomastown, part of Lough Shinny, 212a., statute measure; and in 1672 Charles Viscount Fitz Harding died seised of Grallagh, 485a., Lough Shinny, 58a. 0r. 14p., Puckstown, 142a., &c., all which he held of the king in free and common soccage.

In 1771 Mr. Dempsey, then proprietor of Lough Shinny, petitioned parliament for aid to extend a pier, he had begun here at his own expense, and, although a favourable report was made thereon, the work was not prosecuted, and it is now a total ruin.

To complete the shelter here, it would be necessary [440] to form a breakwater on the ledge of rock where the old pier was begun, so as to raise the same above high water, to within 20 perches of the point near the Martello tower; the place affords plenty of materials for such a work. Jetties might then be run out in any convenient part of the bay, either from the shore, or the breakwater for landing, or shipping places. This harbour would have 15 feet into it at low water, and a fine, clear bottom of sand over an area of about 40 English acres.

At a short distance beyond Lough Shinny a Martello tower has been erected on a promontory, occasionally insulated, for the purpose of defending the harbour of

Skerries,

otherwise called Holmpatrick, implying in its* *Saxon “holm” its character of harbour, and certainly reported by Holinshed as one of the chief havens of Ireland, but at present it assumes no appearance to justify the erection of such a battery. The village, however, is a pleasing object, and its broad street diverging into two others of equal breadth, somewhat in the shape of a Y, its cleanly appearance, its church, chapel, schools and mills, its fleet of wherries animating its bay, its fine strand and downs overhanging the water, and on Sundays and holidays enlivened by groups of the rural beaus and belles of this little “Fair port,” the blue sea, and the adjacent islands cannot fail to gratify the visitor. It is the most considerable [441] fishing village on the east coast, and is likely to be much improved by the proposed Drogheda Railway.

The church is a very plain structure, for the repairs of which the Ecclesiastical Commissioners have granted £63 12s. 2d. Within it are three mural monuments, one to Mr. Dixie Coddington of Holmpatrick, who died in 1728, one to Mr. Weston, who died in 1751, and another to Mr. Hamilton of Sheephill, who died in 1800. In the graveyard is an ancient tombstone to the memory of Elizabeth Finglas, wife of Thomas Hussey of Holmpatrick, who died in 1577, another to Richard de la Hoyde of Lough Shinny, in 1587. There are also monuments commemorative of the Coddingtons and the Woods of Milverton, some to the crew and passengers of a ship, that was wrecked some years since on the neighbouring rocks, and a tombstone to Richard Toole, blacksmith, who died in 1719, remarkable for the curious devices of his trade which are carved upon it. There is likewise a very old stone, with a now unintelligible inscription sculptured in alto relievo on the shaft of a cross that extends over its whole length, possibly designed to commemorate some lordly prior of this house. Nor was it ill suited to the reflections of the scene, that a rosy cherub babe, in laughing infancy, was spreading itself over that prostrate monument of the long departed, and a group of older but as thoughtless urchins were clustered round an adjoining headstone; spelling its broad characters, or vaulting over the sodded arch that flowered at its base.

[442] The Roman Catholic chapel is a handsome cruciform structure, erected in 1823. In it is a white marble slab to the memory of the Rev. Mr. Murray, who died in 1834, pastor of this parish.

In the centre of the town are two schools, one for boys, the other for girls; they are in Connexion with the National Board, who gave £178 4s. 8d. for their erection, £26 for fitting them up, and allow £16 per annum for their support. There is also another free school here, attended by about 30 children, and supported by Mr. Hamilton, the proprietor of the fee.

A* *tambour factory has been established in the town by a Mr. Coghlan, which affords employment to a great many of the surrounding females, of whom those who are grown earn thereby about four shillings weekly, and children two shillings. There are also here two windmills and a water mill, and near the pier some small salt works.

The harbour possesses great natural advantages, but is not sufficiently capacious. It affords a space free from shoals, with land shelter on every side but the east and north-east. A long neck of land extends eastward from the shore and town close by the water of the harbour, and at the extremity of this natural embankment is a lighthouse, while on the north side of the harbour the land projects in nearly an equal extent. The pier runs in a northern direction about 650 feet, and the tide rises 14 feet at full and change, and sluices itself clear. The anchorage outside the harbour has been materially injured by the Wicklow boats throwing [443] out their ballast when they arrive for limestone with which the place abounds. To make this harbour, sailors must, according to the technical instructions of this coast, keep clear of the cross, give the island a good birth, until they bring the northernmost house in the town in a line with a house that stands on the hill of Skerries. When they bring these marks to bear they are at the northward of the cross, and when they have all the town clear of the quay, they will have four or five fathoms of water in the road, which is very safe unless it should blow hard at east or northeast. The pier and harbour, though injudiciously constructed, afford shelter to a little fleet of wherries and smacks. In 1801 the wherries alone attached to this station were 36. In 1820 52 boats were employed, of from 20 to 57 tons burthen, and each of them had on board six or eight men. At present only 38 of these vessels are employed, each being manned as in 1820. Skerries requires a pier on an extensive scale beyond any other place on this coast. If a vessel of any description cannot reach Kingstown in a southerly gale, (a frequent occurrence,) being obliged to bear up, she has no other place but Skerries to run for except Belfast. Nature has already more than half formed a pier here on a grand scale, by a rocky projection of 750 yards into the sea, with a basement from 40 to 70 yards wide, and having a deep, clear, and safe anchorage inside for ships of any draught. An upper work with a parapet and a horn at the extremity would complete the harbour. A harbour light on the cross [444] rock, at the extremity of a reef running into the sea, would also be of great utility.

At a short distance from the coast are situated the Skerries rocks or islands, three in number, and all remarkable for producing great quantities of seaweed, of which kelp was formerly made. Archer says he found strings of lead ore and sulphur in two of these islands, and observed beautifully coloured slate rocks, particularly in that called St. Patrick’s. The nearest is Red Island, the next Colt, and the third St. Patrick’s, while at a yet greater distance in the Sea is the Rock of Bill. St. Patrick’s contains about nine acres, and has upon it some remains of the ancient church. It takes its name from the popular tradition that the Apostle of Ireland, when driven to sea by the Pagan inhabitants of the southern side of the bay, landed there and blessed it. In the surrounding waters the sea crab is found, and the bret, sometimes termed the pheasant of the ocean; the large rock oyster is also abundant, while lobsters of superior quality are taken at Rock of Bill, as well as at Lambay and along the shores, with wicker baskets in form of mousetraps.

The parish, in which Skerries is situated, is more correctly called Holmpatrick. It is in the deanery of Garristown, extends over 2,131a. 0r. 36p., comprised in nine townlands, and is wholly tithe free. Its population was in 1831 returned as (exclusive of Skerries) 553 persons, while that of Skerries was reported as 2,556. The rectory is impropriate in the Hamilton family, who have endowed its curacy with £60 per annum, to which the trustees of the First [445] Fruits have added the yearly allowance of £40 out of Primate Boulter’s fund. This body also granted £450 for building a glebehouse here, and £150 towards the erection of a church. The Roman Catholic union includes with Holmpatrick, Baldungan under the name of Milverton. James Hans Hamilton Esq., of Sheep Hill, is the proprietor of the principal part of the parish, the acreable rent in which varies from £2 to £2 15s. per annum. Manured ground, however, brings £12 per acre.

A monastery was rounded at a very remote period in St Patrick’s island, which the Danes are recorded to have burned in 797. [Annals of Ulster.] In the ninth century, Moel Finian, Prince of the Bregii, whose district extended between Dublin and Drogheda, resigning his government, became a monk in this abbey, of which he was afterwards Superior and died in 895

About the year 1120, the abbey was re-founded for regular canons of St Augustine, by Sitric, the son of Murchard, and dedicated, according to its first institution to St Patrick.

The order of Regular Canons of St Augustine is so called from the saint whose rule they adopted, and who was himself born at Thagasta, a city of Numidia, in the year 354. In 388 having obtained ground without the walls of the city of Hippo in Africa, he associated himself with 11 other persons of eminent sanctity, who lived together after the manner of monks, wearing leathern girdles, and exercising themselves in fasting, praying, and meditation, day and night. In the year 1059 Pope Nicholas the Second, finding that considerable laxity had crept into the monastic orders in the observance of their discipline, endeavoured to effect their reform by imposing upon them a new rule of discipline, and Ivo, Bishop of Chartres, introduced into some congregations of canons, severer rules even than those of Nicholas, in which originated the distinction between secular and regular canons, the first observing the rules of Pope Nicholas, and the latter those of Ivo.

[446] The canons of St. Augustine were of the latter order, and were introduced into England by Aderwald, confessor to Henry the First, who founded a priory of his order at Nostel in Yorkshire. This order was highly favoured by the king, who in 1107 gave them the priory of Dunstable. Queen Matilda also became their patroness, and shortly afterwards erected for them the house of the Holy Trinity in London, the prior of which was always one of the aldermen of the city. So greatly did they from this time flourish in England, that in the time of Edward the First, they had 53 priories in that country, being then popularly called Austin friars. Their numbers, however, subsequently decreased there, and, at the time of the suppression, they had only about 32 houses; while in Ireland they had 223 monasteries and 33 nunneries. The rule, which this religious order observed, although founded, as already remarked, on that of St. Augustine, was prescribed to them by Pope Alexander the Fourth in 1256. It enjoined, that they should have all things in common, that the rich, who might become members of their body, should sell their possessions and give the proceeds to the poor, that the first part of the morning should be employed in labour, and the remainder in study, that when they went abroad they should always go two in company, that they should never eat out of their monastery, with sundry other minor regulations. There are, also, nuns and canonesses who observe the rules and bear the name of this order, from which, it may be added, arose a reformed class denominated bare-footed Augustines, Minorets or friars minor.

In 1124 Malcolm O’Connacan, celebrated for his theological and scientific lore, died in this island of St. Patrick. [Annals of the Four Masters] In 1148 a synod was held here by Gelasius, Archbishop of Armagh, and Malachy, Apostolic Legate, in which 15 bishops, 200 priests, and several others of the clergy assisted. The subject of their conferences, besides matters of reformation, regarded the distribution of palls in Ireland, and they unanimously agreed to send Malachy to the Pope on that errand, in which journey he died.

In 1216 Pope Innocent the Third confirmed to the see of Dublin, amongst other possessions, the advowson of the monastery [447] of Holmpatrick. About the year 1220, its situation in the island having been found very inconvenient, the parochial chapel was erected by Henry de Loundres, Archbishop of Dublin, on the mainland.

In 1357 the king appointed inspectors of all the harbours and creeks from Holmpatrick to Dublin, to prevent the forestalling of fish or exportation thereof without license. [Rot. Claus. in Canc. Hib.]

In 1366 Stephen, Prior of Holmpatrick, was seised of the lands of Killynew in the county of Meath. [Ib.] On the death of this prior the temporalities belonging to the house were seised into the king’s bands, as on the ground that some of his royal predecessors had founded it, but, it being proved by John Randolph the newl elected prior, that their founder was Sitric, the son of Murchard, before the English invasion, that contests had subsisted between the priory of Duleek and their house relative to the said lands, and the subjection of Duleek to Holmpatrick, and that same terminated in the former making over to the latter the said premises for ever, the temporalities so seised were thereupon restored. [Ib.]

It may be remarked, that, on the election of a prior of this house it was indispensably necessary to obtain in the first instance the archbishop’s congé *d’elire, *without which the election was null and void. Next, after a public citation of all the members they proceeded to elect, and the chosen member having signified his consent, the body deputed certain delegates to notify to the archbishop the object of their choice, who, thereupon, appointed a day to hear objections before he confirmed it.

In 1372 it was found on inquisition, that it would operate no damage to the king or injury to others, that a grant should be made to the corporation or Dublin of the customs and duties of all kinds of merchandise brought for sale, as well coming as going by land or sea between Skerries and Arklow, as of all other merchandise within the said city, and said customs were accordingly in 1375 granted to them. In the latter year, the king commanded the Prior of Holmpatrick to arrest and imprison all men-at-arms or archers of the suite of William de Windsor, Chief Governor of Ireland, seeking to embark thence.

[448] In 1393 sundry persons assaulted the Prior of Holmpatrick, expelled him from his house, imprisoned him at Ballough, made a castle of the priory here, and by force of arms kept possession thereof for a considerable time. [Rot. Claus. in Canc. Hib.]

In 1476 a license was granted to the prior, James Cogan, and his successors, to acquire lands for the use of the priory to the value of £40 per annum, notwithstanding the statute of mortmain.

The ploughland of Ballygossan, alias Cabra-hill, having been obtained for this priory, by grant it would appear from Edward the First, on the interference of the Archbishop of Dublin, he reserved to himself and his successors an annuity of two marks, which afterwards occasioned great litigation between the archbishops and the priory, until in 1484 Archbishop Walton, with the consent of his two chapters, very properly released all right thereto, reserving in lieu three pounds of wax annually, while he directed the annuity to be distributed between the prior and canons of this house, further ordering that the said convent should keep yearly an anniversary for the archbishop and his successors on the morrow of All Souls, [Ware’s Bishops, p. 342.] an arrangement which was confirmed in 1429 by William Rokeby, Archbishop of Dublin, and his two chapters.

In 1488 the aforesaid prior, James Cogan, took the oath of allegiance before Sir Richard Edgecombe, who was sent to Ireland to administer same to the principal nobility as before mentioned. For a notice of Holmpatrick in 1496, see “Lambay.”

In 1516 the corporation of Dublin obtained a grant of the customs of all boats plying between the Nanny water and Arklow head.

In 1532, at the hosting commanded by the king to assemble on the hill of Owenstown in this county, the Prior of Holmpatrick was summoned to attend in right of the manor of Hacketstown.

Holmpatrick was one of the Irish religious houses suppressed in 1537 previous to the general dissolution, and in the same year died Peter Manne its last prior, while an inquisition taken in 1543 ascertained its several rights and possessions.

In 1545 the king’s commissioners were empowered to demise *(inter alia), *the king’s farm or Holmpatrick to John Parker - A [449] very interesting notice of the expedition, which sailed hence against the Scots in the same year, is mentioned at Howth and a letter written by one of its leaders, the Earl of Ormonde, from this port, to Lord Russell, is given in the State Papers temp. Henry the Eighth. In it Ormonde intimates, that he was sent on the expedition by the intrigue of St Leger with a view to his destruction, and, after praying a full investigation of any matter that may be laid to his charge, he concludes, “I am no timorous subject, nor shall not try my truth in any timorous sort, and would God his Excellency had even of God the grace and prerogative to know the privy thoughts of all men in their minds and disposition towards his Highness and, if I saw all the power of the world upon a hill armed against his Majesty, I would rather run to his Grace though I were slain at his Majesty’s heels, than to leave his Highness and save myself, I put the judgment of my heart herein to you and other noblemen that have and can try faithful hearts. At this day my Lord of Lennox and I do sail towards Scotland, God send us well to speed, and to your lordship health and encrease of honour, praying your good lordship to give further credence to this bearer, my servant, and thus Almighty God grant unto you, mine own good lord, your noble heart’s desire. From the King’s Majesty’s haven of Skerries, the 15th of November, 1545.”

In the parliament of the second year of Elizabeth, Thomas Fitz Williams of Holmpatrick was one of the knights of the shire representing this county, the celebrated Chief Baron Finglas of Westpalstown, who was his father-in-law, being the other.

In 1575 a great plague having broken out in Dublin, the Lord Deputy Sidney landed at Skerries, and was sworn and kept his court at Drogheda.

In 1578 Sir Thomas Fit? Williams of Baggotrath and Merrion, had a grant of the monastery of Holmpatrick with its possessions therein fully detailed, including eight cottages, 131a. arable 12a. meadow, 18a. pasture and furze, and the custom of the said cottages in the town of Holmpatrick, being the demesne-lands of said priory, one water-mill with the appurtenances, and one windmill upon the hill called Chanon hill, four islands by the haven of Skerries, other premises at Skerries as before enumerated, certain premises in the hamlet of Barnegarragh, one messuage, two cottages, [450] 115 acres, and the custom of the farmers of said messuage, and cottages in the town or hamlet of Cogbragh (Cabragh); one messuage, 60 acres arable, three stangs of meadow, and the customs of the farmers of said messuages and cottages, in the town of New Grange; two messuages, six cottages, 144 acres of land, and the customs of the farmers of said messuages and cottages, in the town of Milwardeston; one messuage, one cottage, 62 acres of land and similar customs, in the town or hamlet of Lanie; one castle, one messuage, three cottages, 135 acres, and similar customs, in the town or hamlet of Hacketstown; four tenements with their gardens, and eight acres of land in Swords, certain premises in Piercystown, Dallabrocan, Hlamestown, Balruddery, Mallahonie, and Thurleston, besides certain lands and tithes in the county of Meath, also the rectory and church of Holmpatrick, with all tithes and profits thereto belonging, and also the custom and poundage of all wares and merchandise on the quay of Skerries, wrecks of the sea, flotsam, jetsam, waifs, strays, goods left and forsaken, profits and commodities happening on the premises or being parcel thereof; also all customs of the tithe fish, keelage, wreckage, anchorage, and all other emoluments, &c., to said quay or creek appertaining, the customs of the farmers of the messuages and cottages in the town or village of Skerries, and the fields of the same, &c.; immediately after which a castle was erected and a garrison established here.

In 1614 Sir Charles Wilmot had a grant of the site and circuit of this priory, with all the gardens and orchards thereof containing three acres, and of a crown rent reserved thereout. Sir James Fullerton became subsequently seised of the rectory and tithes, as also of the lordship and manor of Holmpatrick, which he sold in 1608 to Donogh Earl of Thomond, [Rot. in Canc. Hib.] who thereupon passed patent for the same. The regal visitation of 1615 accordingly reports the rectory of Holmpatrick as impropriate in that nobleman, that the vicar of Balrothery was curate, and that the church and chancel were in good repalr. For a notice of Skerries in 1641, see at “Bremore.”,

“In 1668,” (it should be 1669,) says Harris in his History of William the Third, “Peter Talbot, titular Archbishop of Dublin landed at Skerries, and, being hospitably entertained by Captain Coddington that night, did upon his departure the next morning take him aside, and with the most affectionate expressions of kindness ask what title he had to that estate, for that he observed he had expended considerably upon the improvement of it Coddington answered, that it was an old estate belonging to the Earl of Thomond: Talbot told him that title was worth nothing, that it belonged to the church and would be all taken away, and, therefore, advised him to expend no more upon it, but rather to make the most of it and then desert it, which advice was pressed upon him with strong injunctions of secrecy.

In March, 1675 the Earl of Essex wrote to the Secretary Coventry: “This packet brought us in the sad news of the loss of his Majesty’s yacht in its voyage to Chester, being split upon a little rock called the Skerries. It was very full of passengers and many men of quality; my Lord of Meath is said to be lost, and his son my Lord Brabazon supposed to be so too; my Lord of Ardglass with several others, saved themselves upon the rock, where the; were a day and a night before any vessel arrived to relieve them. We hear that the captain and most of his seamen are drowned.”

For a notice of Holmpatrick in 1697, see at “Lusk.”

In 1721 the Hamiltons of Hacketstown became seised of this manor and rectory by purchase from the Earl of Thomond, and of the town and port of Skerries, and the four islands, parcels of Holmpatrick, and the customs of fish, and the customs of 3s. 4d. out of every great ship that comes out of France, Spain, and Scotland, and four peace out of every such ship coming out of England, &c. This sale was decreed by the Court of Chancery on suit instituted, and subsequently confirmed by the House of Lords.

In 1755 the Irish parliament granted £2,000 for the construction of the pier, and in 1767, £1,500 more for the same purpose. It subsequently fell into decay, but was repaired and somewhat extended by Hans Hamilton, the father of the present proprietor. The round form of the head is objected to as permitting the sea to tumble in along the pier, an error which might be easily, and at a small expense, corrected by a jetty. In 1788 a patent was [452] granted for two yearly fairs and a weekly market to be held here, subject to a certain crown rent, which, together with the chief rent of the manor, was recently purchased by his descendant.

On the sandy shores and fields here the botanist will find, *arenaria peploides, *sea saudwort; *cerastium semidecandrum, *little mouse-ear chickweed *glaucium luteum, *yellow horned poppy; *nepeta cataria, *catmint; *leonurus cardiaca, *motherwort; *cakile maritima, *sea-rocket; *sinapis alba, *white mustard; *raphanus raphanistrum, *wild radish; *anthyllis vulneraria, *kidney-vetch, recommended as an excellent pasturage for sheep; *carex arenaria, *sea-sedge, flowering in July; *lithospermum maritimum, *sea gromwell. - Between the rocks, conferva *setacea, *bristly conferva, which is said to yield a fine lake-coloured fluid on being macerated for a short time in fresh water; and on the coast between Skerries and Balbriggan, *oenanthe peucedanifblia, *sulphur wort, water dropwort, thrown in from the sea; and *fucus dentatus, *indented fucus.

Leaving Skerries for Baldungan, the village of Hacketstown presents itself, where was formerly the parish chapel of Holmpatrick; near it is the secluded demesne, twice the summer residence of the Marquis Wellesley, when Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. King James granted this place with the small castle, three cottages, 135a., and certain yearly customs, “parcel of the estate of the then late monastery of Holmpatrick,” to Thomas Chatham, in fee.

At a short distance, on a swelling hill, appear the ruined castle and church of [453]

Ch. 24. Baldungan.