Chapter 3.

Portrane,

the seat of Mr. George Evans, one of the present representatives for this county. His mansion-house is a spacious brick building, situated nearl in the centre of a fine deer-park. It commands prospects at the land side of nearly the whole of Fingal, while the seaward views are relieved and enlivened by the islands of Lambay and Ireland’s Eye, the bold promontory of Howth, the projections of Portane and Rush, and the enchanting perspective of the Wicklow mountains. This demesne comprises some of the best lands in the county, and its plantations, though so much exposed, thrive with unusual vigour. Pretty avenues and paths have been designed through the woods, but they are latterly much neglected.

North of the demesne, on the shore, the thickly-ivied ruins of the church, and its large, square steeple, evince its former extent. Within the walls are the monuments of Mr. Adam Lynar, who died in 1722, and of Mr. Hampden Evans, who died in 1820, aged 80. The graveyard has no tombs of note. At a short distance hence a square tower of moderate dimensions marks the site of the old castle, formerly the residence of a branch of the family of Cusack of Rathaldron. [313] The summit is attained by 48 stone steps, terminating in an angular watch tower which commands a most noble and extensive view.

The shore at Portrane presents partly a surface of strand and partly of rocks, worn into recesses and caves by the action of the tides. The pier, hereafter mentioned, lies in ruins and unfrequented. The neighbouring rocks afford the *ulva lactuca, oyster green *laver; and the *ulva umbilicalis *navel laver; which, when boiled in sea water, are packed in little earthen pots, and sold under the name of sloke, being in highest season in Winter.

“The rectory of Portrane being impropriate in William Ward and George Evans, the parish ranks as but a curacy. It extends over 2,520a., 3r., 15p., and has been episcopally united, from time immemorial, with the vicarage of Dunabate, in which latter parish the church of the union is situated. The Archbishop of Dublin is the patron. In 1834 its population was returned as 729 persons, of whom 718 were Roman Catholics. This parish is chiefly laid out in tillage. The principal proprietors of the fee are Lord Trimlestown and the Archbishop of Dublin, Mr. Evans being but a tenant, of an expiring lease, under the see. The acreable rent, on modern lettings, is from £1 10s. to £2 per annum, the wages of labour only 6s. per week to those who get constant employment. A cabin without land is rented at about £1 10s. per annum. There is a corn-mill on the townland. Between the village and Dunabate is a grotesque edifice, erected by Mr. Evans, as a school-house [314] for boys and girls, 130 of whom received education there in 1834.

The chapel is situated at the junction of the two parishes of Portrane and Dunabate, which are also united in the Roman Catholic arrangement. This edifice is cruciform, situated in the centre of a burial ground, in which is a monument to the Rev. Peter Teeling, pastor during 30 years of this union, and who died in 1824 at the advanced age of 80. It was under his auspices the chapel was erected.

“On the shore, in a subterranean cave, is a spring well known by the name of Chink-well, from the virtue tradition ascribes to it in the cure of chincoughs. In dribbling down the sides off the grotto this water forms, where it falls, stony incrustations of various figures and vast extent, which ferment strongly with spirit of vitriol. [Rutty’s Mineral Waters, p.483]

“Portrane and Dunabate form nearly a peninsula, being flanked on the north and south by inlets from the sea. The former is the more considerable elevation of the two, being separated from the latter by an intervening hollow. The eastern part of the headland of Portrane consists of transition rocks. In the southeastern quarter under Portrane house, the hollow, which winds towards Dunabate, is occupied by red sandstone conglomerate, and this rock appears to constitute the whole of the rising ground of Dunabate, at the foot of which the new chapel may be seen, founded upon the sandstone. To the westward of Dunabate the country consists of floetz limestone, and the western part of Portrane on which the mansion stands, appears also to be composed in part of limestone, for in sinking a well there, 70 feet deep, 59 feet passed through soil, and the last 11 feet were sunk in limestone; but this is probably connected with the transition rocks in the eastern quarter. The actual contact of the rocks here noticed cannot be traced, but from their general position it may be inferred that the sandstone conglomerate rests upon the transition series.

“The north side of Portrane headland exhibits rugged rocks, composed of massy unstratified green-stone, which extend to the eastward about 50 yards beyond the quay. This greenstone is commonly a compact felspar, coloured by hornblende, varying from a greyish green to a dark, blackish green. Sometimes, however, it is reddish brown, or brick red, and in patches siskin green. In some places it acquires the character of clay-stone, and in others the rock consists of ill-defined crystals of hornblende and felspar. Calcareous spar appears also disseminated in spots, increasing occasionally so much as to constitute nearly the mass of the rock Disseminated iron pyrites likewise occur, and the greenstone is. partly traversed by small, contemporaneous veins of calcareous spar and quartz, and in two instances by veins composed of mixture of epidote and quartz. The greenstone is also porphyritic in some places, as near the western side of the quay. proceeding along the coast the massy greenstone is perceived at low water, presenting a face which declines to the southward under an [316] angle of 46 degrees, and within a few feet of it is a stratified conglomerate in a similar position, which, no doubt, rests upon it, the line of range being 15 degrees north of east and south of west. This conglomerate consists of a base of compact greenstons slate merging into clay slate, and involving rounded and irregular fragments of limestone, greenstone, and calcareous spar, and also pebbles of a mixture of greenstone and calcareous spar, and of conglomerate analogous in composition to that of the whole mass. Through the base a good deal of calcareous spar is disseminated, and sometimes also quartz. Some of the fragments are of the size of the head, and in general they affect a flattened form with rounded angles, but many of them appear as complete pebbles.

“This conglomerate or coarse greywacke, presents a rough aspect in the parts adjacent to the greenstone, but in proceeding to the south-eastward, we observe it to acquire a finer grain, though occasionally intermixed with a coarser-grained, and passing into a greywacke slate. It is succeeded by beds, which alternate with each other from a few inches to six and eight inches thick, composed of coarse-grained conglomerate green-stone and finer-grained conglomerate, all analogous in composition to those already described. We now encounter a conglomerate composed of angular and rounded masses of greenstone, cemented by calcareous spar, and this is succeeded by slaty, fine-grained conglomerate, into which it seems to pass. Limestone thus appears at first intermingled with greenstone and greywacke slate, and afterwards alternating with the latter rock. The range of the beds in this spot [317] is north-east and south-west, and the dip 20 degrees southeast. The intermixture of limestone with the greywacke slate, is very distinct in the vertical section of the cliff, south of the martello tower, where we perceive numerous boulders, pebbles, and masses of limestone scattered through the rock, frequently affecting a nearly rectilinear disposition across the strata, and nearly at right angles with the dip.

“In a similar cliff adjoining on the south, this arrangement is still more striking, the limestone pebbles appearing in clustered masses of an irregular form, and occupying a space from a few inches to five and six feet wide, but also affecting a disposition at right angles with the dip of the greywacke slate. In a cave a little farther south, the limestone is seen in thin layers, seldom exceeding four or five inches in thickness, repeatedly alternating with the greywacke slate. The range is here 10 degrees west of north and east of south, and the dip 59 degrees towards the east. Farther south the alternating beds of limestone gradually acquire a greater thickness, but even here some of the beds consist of conglomerate, composed of large pebbles and angular fragments of limestone, cemented by greywacke slate. Limestone now predominates in massy strata, some of which are several feet in thickness, ranging 20 degrees east of north and west of south, and dipping 50 degrees towards the east. On these massy strata are incumbent, alternating beds of limestone and greywacke slate, some beds of the former substance being even four, five, and six feet thick. These rocks are much contorted, and, indeed, inflections [318] prevail throughout the eastern part of this coast, whence arise the various range and dip already observed. In this quarter the beds lie almost horizontally, while the superior gradually acquire the high angle of 50 degrees.

“In a cove to the south a conglomerate appears, the base of which is a mixture of clay slate and limestone, enveloping pebbles and even boulders (two and three feet in diameter) of limestone, and of coarse greywacke, which consists of a clay slate base containing* *much limestone, calcareous spar, quartz, clay slate, and greywacke itself. In the southern part of this cove the limestone is seen supporting massy strata of fine-grained greywacke, four and five feet thick, and forming cliffs 40 and 50 feet in height, but some of the strata are only a few inches or one or two feet thick. The line of junction is well marked by a thin seam of calcareous spar rising from the south to the north under an angle of 15 degrees. In the lower strata the greywacke is a firm, compact rock, of fine grain, containing numerous small scales of silvery mica dispersed in all directions, sometimes also disseminated iron pyrites, and occasionally small fragments of clay slate. In the upper strata it merges into greywacke slate, and into clay slate. These slaty rocks frequently alternate with thin layers of limestone, from one inch to one-eighth or one-tenth of an inch in thickness, and they are also traversed by numerous small contemporaneous veins and strings of calcareous spar and quartz.

The diffusion of calcareous matter is so general [319] through the greywacke, greenstone, and slaty rocks of this coast, that few varieties can be found which do not effervesce with acids, even when nothing calcareous is visible to the eye. Rocks of this description, greywacke slate and clay slate, with thin layers of limestone and fine-grained greywacke, with massy beds of limestone and limestone conglomerate, now occupy the coast for a considerable distance to the southward in undulated stratifications, the slaty rocks forming the predominant superincumbent mass, while the general range is nearly east and west throughout. Compact greenstone now appears near the southern martello tower, some of which is porphyritic, and traversed by numerous contemporaneous veins of quartz. It is succeeded by fine-grained greenstone slate passing into clay slate, which contains fragments and spots of clay slate, quartz, and calcareous spar. This rock rests upon the compact greenstone, ranging east and west, and dipping 45 degrees south. More south is met compact greenstone again resting upon the greenstone slate. It is porphyritic, and about 100 yards from the martello tower, it consists entirely of greenstone porphyry, in which the felspar crystals are closely crowded together. But immediately under the tower we have greenstone slate again, similar to that before described. It seems nearly allied to the coarse clay slate or greenstone conglomerate, into which it probably passes, is of a mottled aspect, greenish or purplish in colour, and of this description is the whole rock south-east of the martello tower to the sea. To the south of the martello tower the beach is lined [320] with sand hillocks, which extend to the inlet from the sea that leads up to Malahide.

“In the higher grounds of Portrane, as in the park and toward the house, are perceived only rocks of an analogous description, the general range of which appears to be nearly east and west, agreeing with that on the coast, although in some places inflected. The prevailing dip is to the south, varying from 50 degrees to an almost horizontal position, being also in some parts inflected. The limestone on this coast is bluish grey, and even blackish grey, and of a varying texture, compact, partly foliated, and even nearly granularly foliated. In its fracture it exhibits no distinct petrifactions, yet when examined below the line where it has been acted upon by the sea, organic remains are displayed in the most marked manner protruding above the surface of the wasted stone. They consist principally of zoophites, with some bivalves. In the conglomerate rock under the pigeon-house at the park, (the base of which is a mixture of limestone and greenstone enveloping pebbles of limestone and green stone,) bivalves, trochites, and madreporites may be observed.” [Trans of the Geolog. Soc. vol. v. p. 222, &c.]

In 1040, according to the Black Book of Christ Church, Sitric, King of Dublin, gave to that establishment and to Donatus, Bishop of Dublin, a place where the arches or vaults were founded, to build the church of the Holy Trinity upon, and also endowed it with the lands of Beldoyle and Portrane, with their villeins, cattle, and corn.

In 1170 Earl Strongbow confirmed this grant, as did Archbishop Laurence O’Toole in 1178. Portrane is accordingly enumerated [321] enumerated among the possessions of Christ Church in Pope Urban’s bull of 1186. Pope Clement the Third, however, appears to have granted it to the see of Dublin, and, the archbishop having thereupon in 1197 asserted his claims, the canons of Christ Church compromised their title, on condition of receiving 100 rabbits yearly out of the warren of Portrane, and in 1204 Patrick, the sub-prior of Christ Church, relinquished all rights of his house in Portrane and Lambay to Archbishop Comyn, on obtaining in lieu thereof Tilach, Dromin, and Ballochegan, and one carucate in Theholock. [Regist. of Christ Church.] Soon after which the church of Portrane was appropriated by John, Archbishop of Dublin, for the proper uses of the Prioress of Grace Dieu, [Repert. Viride.] and Archbishop Walter increased its revenues by grants of a house, a court, and a farm called Ballycammon.

In 1216 Pope Innocent the Third confirmed to the see of Dublin (*inter alia) *Portrane, with its appurtenances, as did King Edward in 1337, and King Richard while in Dublin in 1394. Accordingly in 1403 Thomas, Archbishop of Dublin, was found seised in his demesne as of fee in right of his church, of divers lands, rents, and services in Finglas, Rollestown, Portrane, Culleyn, &c. [Rot. Pat. in Can. Hib.]

In 1536 Sir John Barnewall, third Baron of Trimlestown, was constituted seneschal and receiver of a moiety of this with other manors, and the property, then acquired by him and by Sir Patrick Barnewall (ancestor of the Lords Kingsland) in this parish, is still in their family. For a notice of Portrane in 1537, see “Rush.”

An inquisition of 1541 finds, that the last Abbess of Grace Dieu was seised, with other possessions, of the following rectories appropriated to her house, viz. Grace Dieu, annual value £3; Portrane, with a messuage and 18 acres of land in Portrane belonging to the rectory, annual value £9 10s. A subsequent inquisition states her having a castle here, with divers buildings called the threshing-house, &c., with the parsonage, hemp-yard, and haggard. At this time a branch of the Cusack family was resident here.

In 1576 the queen granted to Francis Agard, Esq., one of the [322] privy conncil, the church and rectory of Portrane, and all and singular castles, manors, tithes, and all hereditaments spiritual and temporal to said rectory belonging, at the annual rent of £8, and the render of a rose on St. John’s day. At that time 18 acres of land appertained to this rectory, there was also the castle in Portrane, a close east of the castle and a house in ruins north of the old hall, a range of stables, the slaughterhouse of the manor, also the kitchen, and “a long stretch of houses called the New Hall in the south corner of which the chaplain to the said prioress had his chamber, and celebrated divine service in the parish church?”

In 1608 Sir Henry Harrington of Grange-Con conveyed and assigned to Nicholas Ball of Dublin, alderman, the church and rectory of Portrane, with all tithes, &c. thereto appertaining, to hold to him and his heirs for ever.

In the Regal Visitation Book of 1615 Portrane is described as “a rectory and vicarage impropriate, church and chancel in good repair, the profits sequestered for want of a curate.” In the same year the king granted to Robert Kennedy and William Rowles of Dublin, as assignees of David Viscount Roche and Fermoy, *(inter alia) *Monangeragh, within the manor of Esker, 15a., the tithes of fish and lands of Portrane, parcel of the estate of the late monastery of Grace Dieu, 8a. in Miltown-Regis, within the manor of Newcastle, near the mill with common of pasture and turbary. [Rot. Pat. in Canc. Hib.]

According to the surveys taken at the time of the commonwealth, there were then 105a., plantation measure, of commons here. This tract has been since enclosed.

In 1665 William Usher was seised of the tithes of the fishery of Portrane, held of the king in free and common soccage, at an annual rent. [Inquis. in Canc. Hib.] The whole tithes of the parish subsequently vested in the Ball family, and by the marriage of a daughter of that house with Richard Archhold of Eadstown, passed to him and his descendants. For a notice in 1697 see post, at “Dunabate.”

In 1712 Portrane was the residence of the ill-fated Stella. Soon afterwards Eyre Evans, Esq., M. P. for the county of Limerick, [323] settled here, and from him has the present proprietor descended.

In 1775 the Irish parliament granted £500 for a pier and quay here at the instance of Mr. Evans. At this period, the creeks and shores of Portrane were filled with smugglers to such a daring extent, that in 1771, in one seisure, 75 chests and 20 casks of green and bohea teas, and 111 casks of brandy were taken there, while in the island of Dunabate 800 casks of tea and brandy were seized on the same occasion. The revenue officers and their assistants were besieged during 24 hours, in the barns where they stored their prizes by upwards of 500 smugglers completely armed, with white cockades in their hats, and carrying a white flag. A Captain Luske, however, whose vessel was off the neighbouring coast, getting intelligence of the transaction, landed a considerable part of his crew, defeated and dispersed the smugglers, and carried the seizure to the king’s stores.

A private act of 1804 authorized the enclosing of the commons here and at Dunabate.

From Portrane house, a shady, wooded road winds through evergreens down into Dunabate. Pursuing, however, another direction, unguided by road or path, the historian will seek the locality of

Ch. 4.Corballies/Dunabate