Kilbride, the Three Castles, Blessington, Poulaphuca and Ballymore Eustace

CHAPTER XXXVII

Kilbride, the Three Castles, Blessington, Poulaphuca and Ballymore Eustace

Proceeding along the Blessington tram road, described in previous chapters, we can either follow the tails to “The Lamb,” or diverge from the beaten track by taking the old coach road which turns to the left about three miles beyond Tallaght, passing by Mount Seskin over Tallaght Hill or Knockannavea. This route, superseded about a hundred years ago, is less frequented than the other, and much steeper, but commands a rather more extensive view of the Dublin plain. The Compleat Irish Traveller, published in London in 1788, thus describes this place:- “We next came to a place called Tallow Hill, where we employed our eyes a flill hour contemplating as beautiful a prospect as ever Nature formed.” [Here follows a detailed description of the view.] “In short, we that never saw it before were ravished with the sight. I own it gave me a peculiar contentment; it looked like rest after fatigue. This glorious prospect is about six miles from Dublin, for here are roadstones marked; but by our telescopes we brought it almost under the bottom of the hill.”

Just at the top of the hill we pass the old country house, Mount Seskin, described in another chapter, and in about a mile and a half further, rejoin the tram road at Brittas. Two miles beyond this is the place called “The Lamb,” where there is now only a tram station and ticket office, but where in former times stood an inn with the sign of “The Lamb,” which has since left its name impressed on the locality.

Leaving “The Lamb” by the road turning off to the left from the tramway, we descend by an undulating road fringed with pine plantations, the rounded form of Dowry Hill being on the left, into the romantic wooded Glen of Kilbride, situated in the valley of the Brittas River, near its junction with the Liffey. From this point Seechon, Seefinn, and Seefingan are to be seen on the left, and in front the higher elevations of Moanbane and Mullaghcleevaun. After passing the Catholic church we take the first turn on the right into a narrow, sheltered lane, conducting us to the green banks of the Liffey, with pasture lands sloping down to the water’s edge. A short distance further, in a field to the right, is a square ivied ruin, called “The Three Castles,” [Picture supplied by Graeme McKay. KF Jan. 2001] reputed by tradition to be the survivor of three, the sites of the other two being still pointed out by the people of the neighbourhood. On the southern side of the structure is what appears to have been a mullioned window, and the arched doorway on the western side is in an exceptionally good state of preservation. In the interior will be seen, still in perfect condition, the stone supports for the first floor, from which access was obtained to the battlements, now only possible with the aid of a ladder. The roof is very strongly built, arched like a bridge, and the masonry of both the interior and exterior is still wonderfully perfect. Adjoining is a large well, which furnished the water supply for the castle, and was, doubtless, included within the circuit of its outworks.

Considerable historic interest attaches to this place, which, being on the very borders of the Pale, was the scene of almost constant guerrilla warfare.

About the beginning of June, 1538, John Keiway, “Constable of the King’s Castell of Rathmor,” was slain here by the Irish, under the following circumstances: - It appears from an account in the State Papers of Henry VIII., Vol III., pp.18 and 27, that some short time previously this man had found “two of Tirrelagh Otoly’s [O’Toole’s] servauntes in the English borders, next joynyng to the Tolys countre, eting of meat, and for the same did immediately hang them.” Tirlagh O’Toole of Fercullen (now Powerscourt) being at peace with the English Government at the time, forthwith demanded an explanation of this outrage, and accordingly, Kelway having arranged a meeting for the purpose of conferring with the Irish Chieftain, took with him, on the day appointed, a number of supporters and retainers from the adjoining districts. He probably intended treachery, but, as the sequel shows, the Irish had made ample provision for this contingency. The following letter, written to the King on the 4th June, by the Deputy, Lord Leonard Gray, from Dublin Castle, describes what took place on the occasion. (To make the letters more intelligible, the modernised spelling adopted in the article quoted at the end of this chapter has been adhered to):-“John Kelway, Constable of your Grace’s Manor of Rathmore (which Manor bordereth upon the Tooles), of his own mind, raised certain gentlemen, poor husbandmen, and labourers, and went to parley with one Tirlagh O’Toole, with whom I was at peace, and in the parleying they differed, and the said Kelway chased the said Tirlagh, who took to flight to a certain place, where he had ambushed his kerne [foot soldiers], and so suddenly turned, and set upon the said Kelway with all his ambushment, so that the said Kelway, and certain gentlemen of the country who were in his company were constrained to take [to] a small pile called the Three Castles, being upon the borders of the said Tirlagh’s country. At which time they slew certain husbandmen and labourers, and a thatched house joining to the same pile put afire, so that the head of the same pile, being covered with thatch lacking battlement, took fire, and so all burned, so that the said Kelway, and such of the gentlemen as then were with him, were constrained to yield themselves prisoners; and he being in hand with the said Tirlagh O’Toole, him slew cruelly. Assuring your Excellent Majesty that divers and sundry times I gave monition to all your constables joining upon the marches, to beware the train of their borderers, and specially to the said Kelway, who, I assure Your Grace, was as hardy a gentleman as any could be.”

On the 5th June Sir William Brabazon, Lord Treasurer, addressed a letter, of which the following is an extract, to John Alen, Lord Chancellor, and Gerald Aylmer, whose son was at the time a prisoner in the hands of the Irish (Carew M.SS., 1515-74, No. 121):-

“On Friday last past Mr. Kelway had parliament [conference] with Tirloch O’Thoyll and Art besides the Three Castles; who had assembled to him certain husbandmen and freeholders of Rathmore, Newtown, and the parish of Kill, and others, and would needs chase Tirloch and Art up to the high mountains, who there had their kerne ready, and turned back and set upon Kelway, and drove him to the Three Castles, and others with him, and set fire on the top of the Castle, so that they yielded; wherein was taken Kelway and your young kinsman, Mr. Justice Richard Aylmer, young Flattesbury, Lang, and divers others; and such husbandmen as the kerne met with they slew them, for they had no horses to flee, and as I am informed there was slain sixty householders. Thomas Lang is let forth, and Mr. Aylmer remaineth with them, and some others; and after that they had Mr. Kelway within a while they killed him and such of the soldiers as was with him … I was never in despair in Ireland until now.”

That the English authorities held Kelway to blame for the entire incident is clearly shown by the following extracts, the first from a letter written by Justice Luttrell to Chief Justice Aylmer, and the second from a letter of Sir William Brabazon, Privy Councillor, addressed to Thomas Cromwell, Secretary of State - both letters having been written within a few months of the occurrence:-

(1) “Brother Justice, I comend me unto you. Your nevue Richard Aylmer, it fer me shall not come forth, onles he pay his raunson, for so, this last day Tirlagh said playnly to my Lord of Ossery his messenger, and also to my servunt Dogherty, which chauncyed to be at Glendalach, when the discomfortur was made, and durst not cum from thens til this. Al the faut of the same mysaventur is put in Kelway, both by them of the Counte Kildar, that was ther present, and also of the Tolis [O’Tooles] as Pluncket may schow you. Your son, Bartholemew, scape themh apy, for he was there with Aylmer.”

(2) “Toching the garrison of Rathmore, which Kelway had; forasmuche as it is one of the chief keys of defence against the Tholes [O’Tooles], and that the countrie is greatly depopulate in thois quarters, we beseeche your good Lordship, that none be appointed thereunto, but sooche one as shal be an honest man, that wolbe resident ther, having some experience to governe and defende a countrie.” The prisoners, Aylmer and Flatisbury, were shortly afterwards released on payment of the ransom demanded.

In the Annals of the Four Masters under the year 1546 appears the following entry in regard to this place:- “The rebels were defeated at Baile-na-d-tri-g-Caislen (the town of the three castles) by the English and by Brian and Chogaidh, the sons of Terence O’Toole. The sons of James, the son of the Earl of Kildare - viz., Maurice and Henry - were taken prisoners, together with 24 of their people, who were afterwards brought to Dublin, and all cut in quarters, except Maurice, who was confined in the King’s castle until it was determined what death he should receive.” This Maurice was executed in the following year.

Less than a mile beyond the castle, in the townland of Crosscool Harbour, and behind Liffey Cottage, is an ancient burial place known as Scurlock’s churchyard, enclosed by a low wall, and sheltered by a number of lofty trees. It contains a few recent and many old tombstones, among which may, with difficulty, be distinguished the foundations of the ancient church. Between the churchyard and the Liffey, and in the low ground adjoining the latter, is a holy well under a solitary ash tree, much resorted to in the month of June, when it is reputed to possess special efficacy in healing various disorders.

At a distance of a little over two miles from the Three Castles we enter Blessington by a pretty road, rising sharply as it approaches the village, and in almost constant view of the winding course of the Liffey.

Blessington still possesses some good houses, and the sides of its wide street are planted with trees in boulevard fashion.

In the middle of the street, opposite the Courthouse, is a fountain bearing the following inscription:-

“Erected on the coming of age of the Earl of Hillsborough, 24th Dec., 1865. “A tribute of respect from the Tenantry of the Wicklow, Kildare, and Kilkenny estates of the Marquis of Downshire. “The water supplied at the cost of a kind and generous landlord for the benefit of his attached and loyal tenants.”

Blessington is of comparatively modern origin, both town and church having been erected in the reign of Charles II, by Archbishop Boyle, who presented to the church a set of plate, as well as the fine chime of bells at present in use, the latter bearing the date of their presentation in 1682. A monument in the churchyard to the memory of the Archbishop, who was ancestor of the Lords Blessington, commemorates his benefaction to the village and its inhabitants. Blessington became greatly enhanced in prosperity and importance by the construction through it of the Dublin, Baltinglass, and Carlow coach road in the early part of the last century, in connection with which the great bridge designed by Nimmo was built over the Liffey al; Poulaphuca in 1820, to supersede the old Horsepass bridge, about half a mile to the north-east, erected in earlier times to supersede the ford of the Horsepass. The inhabitants were incorporated in the reign of Charles II. by Royal Charter which was granted to Michael Boyle, Archbishop of Dublin, and Chancellor of Ireland, in 1669. The Corporation rejoiced in the high-sounding title of “The Sovereign, Bailiffs, and Burgesses of the Borough and Town of Blessington,” and consisted of a sovereign, two bailiffs, and twelve burgesses. The Archbishop as sovereign, was authorised by the charter to appoint a recorder, town clerk, and numerous other civic functionaries, whose salaries must have been a heavy drain upon the revenues of this Lilliputian municipality. The Borough was represented by two members in the Irish Parliament, for the loss of which representation the sum of £15,000 was awarded at the Union. This sum was paid to the Marquess of Downshire who had sustained serious loss in 1798 through the burning by the insurgents of his handsome mansion, situated with its demesne and deer park, a little to the west of the village. The house was never rebuilt, and it still remains in ruins. During the troubles of 1798 the church was used as a barrack for a garrison, temporarily maintained there for the protection of the locality.

The Compleat Irish Traveller (1788), contains the following reference to this place:- “Blessington, a pleasant place on a rising ground. The church is very neat, and well kept, with a sweet ring of bells, a thing not very commonly met in this Kingdom. The town is neither large nor rich, but its chief ornament is the seat of a worthy nobleman, that bears the title of Lord Blessington, whose house is at the end of an avenue to the left of the road, with a noble large terrace walk, a quarter of an English mile in length, that leads to the church in the town, across the road which faces the house.”

Atkinson’s Irish Tourist (1815), referring to Blessington, says:- “Though situate on grounds less picturesque than Ballymore, it is composed of much better houses, can boast of a more respectable population, and its position is more elevated and conspicuous. The church, which is the most ornamental building in the place, is seen from the vallies and surrounding mountains, in connection with the village, over which it lifts its modest spire, as a good object in that dry and open landscape.”

In 1815 Blessington furnished a corps of Yeomanry for the protection of that portion of the county.

To reach Ballymore-Eustace from Blessington the best route is to follow the tram rails as far as the sheds known as “The Tram Stores,” where the road to the right should be taken. There is a shorter and more direct road, but being more undulating, no economy in point of time will be effected by choosing it. About 2½miles from Blessington the road enters a dense plantation, and immediately afterwards passes Russborough House, formerly the residence of the Earls of Milltown, situated in the centre of an extensive and well wooded park. This splendid mansion, in the Grecian style, was built after a design by Cassels, supposed to have been the architect of the Irish Parliament House, now the Bank of Ireland, and consists of a centre and two wings, connected by semi-circular colonnades of alternate Doric and Corinthian pillars. The interior is fitted up in stately fashion, and the floors of the principal apartments are constructed of polished mahogany.

About a mile beyond Russborough House we reach the tram sheds, where the road turns to the right, but, if time permits, Poulaphuca should be visited, as it is only about a mile out of the direct route.

The Liffey, which at Poulaphuca forms the boundary between the counties of Wicklow and Kildare, on approaching the fall, traverses a picturesquely wooded gorge, terminating at the bridge in a series of irregular rocky ledges, over which the river falls into a pool 150 feet below the parapet on the western side.

The name, Poulaphuca, means the pool of the Pooka, a kind of malevolent goblin peculiar to Ireland, but closely allied to the English Puck or Robin Goodfellow. All tradition of his exploits has long since passed out of this neighbourhood, and it is to be presumed that the march of modern improvements has driven him to wilder and more secluded haunts.

This locality is memorable in the annals of hunting as being the scene of the destruction of the Kildare hounds in 1813. The following description of this occurrence is abbreviated from an account, amusing for its topographical blunders, in The Sporting Magazine for 1832, and reproduced in the article on “Poul-a-phooka” referred to at the end of this chapter. In reading the account, it should be borne in mind that Poulaphuca bridge was not in existence at the time.

The hounds met in November, 1813, at the Tipper cross roads, near Naas, and after trying a neighbouring gorse, were trotting towards Troopersfields, when a large fox sprung up from a thicket immediately in front of the hounds, and made straight for the Wicklow mountains, over so rough a country and at such a pace tat the whole field were thrown, with the exception of two, who, being well mounted, were able to keep reynard in sight.

“He passed Liffey Head, and without a check, gained the romantic rocks, plantation, and waterfall of Pole Ovoca, where the river Ovoca [!], so celebrated by Anacreon Moore, is precipitated over a high and rugged ridge of rocks, and which was then unusually swollen by a succession of rainy weather. In this plantation, on the other side of the Ovoca, was the villain’s den, and, as it came in view, the hounds were close at its brush - a distance of twelve miles, all nearly against the hill, having been done in fifty-five minutes.” The fox made for a narrow part of the gorge above the fall, where the river passed between two large rocks, and attempted to jump from one to the other, but lost his footing, and was precipitated into the torrent below. Twenty-five hounds who were leading at the time, with desperate resolution, jumped in after him, and were carried away by the flood.

When the writer of the article from which this account is taken, and Grennan, the huntsman, reached the bank of the river, fox and hounds were all in one struggling melee in the foaming eddies under the fall, some killed in the descent, others maimed but still alive, one of which latter succeeded in landing, though in an exhausted condition. The fox, the cause of all the trouble, also managed to reach the bank, though whether he escaped with his life does not transpire. Even if he failed to do so, however, it must have been a source of great consolation to him in his last moments to know that his death was being so well avenged.

“When Grennon saw the elite of his pack thus swept from before his eyes, he stood (for assistance was impossible) for some time like a statue; but when he was assured, by their lifeless remains floating in the pool below the fall, of the loss of two particular veterans, whose names I [the narrator] have forgotten, he could stand it no longer, but burst into tears, and wept long and bitterly.”

The route so airily described in this account is an utterly incredible and impossible one, and consisted, roughly speaking, of a run from near Naas to Sally Gap and then back to Poulaphuca. Liffey Head (adjoining Sally Gap), which is stated to have been passed on the way to “Pole Ovoca,” is about 1,500 feet high, and not less than 15 miles from the meeting place, over as rough a piece of country as could be found in the County Wicklow; and the run thither, and return to almost starting point - about 30 miles - all in 55 minutes, deserve to be classed with the exploits of Finn MacCool. Yet the writer of this amazing account was himself present at the hunt, and no doubt believed throughout that he was in the Vale of Ovoca.

Returning from the Waterfall along the road to the tram sheds, we turn to the left along the road to Ballymore-Eustace about a mile and a half from Poulaphuca, This village, scattered over a broken piece of wooded country on the banks of the Liffey, is considerably larger than Blessington, Consisting of a main street and several side streets, and is of more irregular appearance. The river is spanned here by a handsome bridge of six arches, constructed with great strength to withstand the floods from the mountains. The Compleat Irish Traveller thus describes this place about 1788:- “Ballymore-Eustace is a small town on the river Liffey, with a handsome bridge over that river. This town seems very much decayed, though in a very pleasant situation. It was formerly of much larger extent. The chief reason given for its decline is that the great southern road which for ages led through this place is now turned by way of Kilcullen bridge, which has enriched that place and starved this, but it has much bettered the traveller, and shortened the way, as we are informed. Near this town is a fine large common, and it was a very agreeable sight to see so many cattle of different sorts pleasingly feeding on the sweet grass, as rich as any meadow produces.”

The earliest record of the ancient family of Eustace, from which this place derives its name, is in 1373, when the Archbishop of Dublin appointed Thomas FitzEustace to be Constable of the Castle of Ballymore, with a salary of £10 a year, on condition of his residence there, and of his guardianship and maintenance of the fortress. With this appointment doub4ess originated the name of Ballymore-Eustace.

Of the ancient stronghold no trace whatever now remains, though local tradition assigns for its site the eminence known as “Garrison Hill.”

In 1524 Robert Talbot, of Belgard, while journeying to spend his Christmas with the Lord Deputy, was murdered at this place by James Fitzgerald, but owing to the influential connections of the Geraldines the murderer was never brought to justice.

In 1537 Robert Cowley, writing to Thomas Cromwelt Secretary of State, says:- “Ballymore and Tallagh, belonging to the Archbishop of Dublin, stande most for the defence of the counties of Dublin and Kildare against the O’Tooles and O’Byrnes; be it, therefore, ordered that the Commissioners shall see such farmers or tenants there as shall be hardy marchers, able to defend that marches.”

In a “Regal Visitation” of 1615, it is recorded that John Bathe was the curate of Ballymore-Eustace, and that the Irish translation of the Book of Common Prayer was in use in the Protestant church there.

In 1798 considerable skirmishing occurred both in the town itself and in its immediate neighbourhood, and the church was destroyed by the Insurgents.

The shortest way home from Ballymore-Eustace, otherwise than by Blessington, is by Rathmore and Kilteel, but it will add only a few miles to the journey to take the road leading to Naas, and turn to the right at the Watch House cross-roads into the Woolpack road, beside the Punchestown racecourse. In a field opposite the entrance to the course is a large monolith, and a short distance further, on the other side of the road, is a similar monument, about 20 feet high, inclined at an angle of about 30 degrees from the perpendicular. The list in this stone was caused, it is stated, by an attempt on the part of one of the Viscounts Allen to remove it to his mansion at Punchestown, by yoking fourteen couples of draught oxen to it. We next pass “Beggar’s End,” where six roads radiate, and from this point our route along the Woolpack road is very secluded, as it is very little used except during the Punchestown races. From the higher parts, extensive views are obtained over the flat, fertile plains of Kildare. At a distance of eight miles from the Watch House cross-roads we turn to the left, opposite the entrance to Johnstown House, by a short descent conducting us to Blackchurch Inn, whence our route home lies along the Naas road.

In the preparation of this chapter much valuable information has been derived from the following articles in Volume III. of the Journal of the County Kildare Archaeological Society, viz. :- “Rathmore” (for the Three Castles), by Mr. Hans Hendrick Aylmer, and “Ballymore Eustace and its Neighbouring Antiquities” and “Poul-a-phooka” - both by Lord Walter Fitzgerald.

Distances from G.P.O. by route described - Blessington, 20 miles; Poulaphuca, 24; Ballymore-Eustace, 26; Punchestown, 31; G. P.O., 52.