Glennasmole or the Valley of the Thrushes

CHAPTER XXXVIII

Glennasmole or the Valley of the Thrushes

Glennasmole or the upper valley of the Dodder - the most conspicuous glen in the Dublin range - is well marked out by the slopes of Mount Pelier on the east, and the towering heights of Seechon, Corrig and Seefingan on the west, while Kippure, the highest mountain in the view, forms the southern boundary of the valley, and the watershed between the basins of the Dodder and the Liffey.

Pedestrians desirous of exploring this district should take the steam tram to Tallaght, walking thence by Oldbawn bridge to Bohernabreena and turning to the right at the chapel. Immediately after passing Bohernabreena chapel will be seen the entrance to Friarstown, the residence, early in the last century, of Ponsonby Shaw, brother of Sir Robert Shaw, of Bushy Park, Terenure.

The murder of Kinlan, Shaw’s game-keeper, by the Kearneys, and the execution of the latter on the bank of the Dodder, are described in another chapter.

Shaw spent a deal of money on improvements at Friarstown, reclaiming and planting the grounds, which he convened into a pretty wooded glen, with winding walks, grottoes and miniature waterfalls. At the head of the glen he formed a lake by damming the course of the stream, but it was hardly well finished when it burst and swept all before it, making a complete wreck of his work. He was so much discouraged by this mishap that he made no attempt to repair the damage, and the place is now in a state of wildness, which, however, invests it with a charm it probably never possessed in its former condition. One of the pathways leads to the bottom of the glen near a cascade and ruined grotto, which are so densely shaded by trees that scarcely a ray of sunlight reaches them in the summer-time. This place will well repay a visit if arrangements permit.

A steep descent from the chapel leads to the picturesquely situated Bohernabreena bridge, built about 1837, across a very narrow part of the river called the Sheep Hole, a short distance beyond which is the entrance to the waterworks of the Rathmines and Rathgar township. Admission to the pathway, which is practicable for cycles, leading by the river and reservoir lakes to Castlekelly, is allowed only on production of a pass available for bearer and party, to be obtained on application to the Rathmines Commissioners. But, as will be seen further on, there is an alternative route, more direct than the waterworks pathway, in case a pass is not available.

The pathway runs close to the river, the banks of which in parts are broken and precipitous, occasionally diversified by patches of stunted wood and furze. A caretaker’s cottage marks the commencement of the lower lake, and a similar cottage, sheltered by evergreens, is passed as we ascend to the level of the upper lake. The borders of these lakes have been Prettily planted in places, and the whole aspect of the valley has been so much altered by their construction that if Finn MacCool could revisit the place, he would hardly recognise it as the scene of his classic exploits. As we proceed along the margin of the upper lake we can see in front the brown, furrowed slopes of Kippure, on which the head waters of the Dodder and its tributary streams, Slade Brook and Cot Brook, take their origin.

On reaching the extremity of the upper lake we emerge from the territory of the Rathmines Commissioners, and pass through the turnstile out on the public road at Castlekelly bridge, which bears an inscription stating that it was rebuilt in 1906, and that its predecessor was destroyed the previous year by a flood. In about half a mile from this we reach the secluded hamlet of Castlekelly, taking its name from an old castle which formerly defended this pass through the mountains, and whose foundations may still be traced in the masonry of some of the cottages. Eugene O’Curry visited this place in 1837, and his letters in connection with the Ordnance Survey, now in the Royal Irish Academy, afford most interesting reading as to the conditions of life in Glennasmole in the early part of last century. He obtained his information from an old man, eighty-four years of age, who spoke Irish fluently, and who stated that forty years previously, little English was spoken in this sequestered glen, the only persons having any considerable knowledge of it being the carmen whose business took them regularly to Dublin.

As an alternative to going by the waterworks pathway, Castlekelly can be reached more directly either by taking the road past Bohernabreena chapel, up the steep hill, or by entering Friarstown glen, and following the course of the stream which flows through it, until the road is met at the little hamlet of Glassamucky, situated in a deep dell and sheltered by a grove of trees. Higher up the slope of the valley above this place, and on the upper road, is Piperstown, now represented by a few cottages, but more extensive in former years when the glen had a larger population.

About half a mile beyond Glassamucky was formerly St. Ann’s Monastery, a small modern establishment, where some thirty years ago a quoit club used to meet and dine occasionally, the provisions being sent out from town, and the room and appointments provided in the building. Many a pleasant summer’s evening was spent by the members in the pure mountain air here, the only disadvantage being the long drive from and back to the city.

A mile further, a winding pathway leads to the ruined church and holy well of St. Ann’s, in a sequestered position some distance lower down the slope of the valley. This old church is properly St. Sanctan’s or Sentan’s, the name “Sentan” having been corrupted into “St. Ann,” and the founder, one of the early saints, thereby deprived of his rightful credit and inheritance - an injustice which it is to be feared is now irrevocable. The mistake seems to have originated with the erroneous translation of the old name Wilnasantan into “the Church of St. Ann,” which erroneous form was adopted by Dalton in his History of the County Dublin, and perpetuated in the Maps of the Ordnance Survey. In Archbishop Alan’s Repertorium Veride the name is written Kilimesantan (St. Mosanctan’s or Santan’s Church), and in The Annals of the Four Masters the death is recorded in A.D. 952 of the Abbot of the Church of Bishop Sanctan. So far back as 1326 this district was described in official records as “waste by war” and “lying within the Irishry, therefore, waste and unprofitable,” and the church has probably not been used as a place of worship since that time. A number of old headstones may be seen in the churchyard, and near the entrance is a holy water font carved out of a granite boulder.

An exactly similar instance of corruption of this saint’s name occurs in the Isle of Man, where there is a headland called St. Ann’s Head, near Santon, and four miles south west of Douglas. Santon was known as St. Sanctan ‘s in the 16th century, after which it assumed in succession the forms Kirk Sanctan, Kirk Santan, Santan, and lastly Santon, although the parish is still Kirk Santan. The name of the headland should, of course, be St. Santan’s Head, and on some maps a compromise is made by calling it Santon Head.

Returning to the road, and continuing our journey up the valley, we presently reach a group of houses bearing the curious name of Cunard, half a mile beyond which is Castlekelly, already described. About half a mile further, near the confluence of Cot Brook and the Dodder, is Glennasmole Lodge, sheltered by its woods and standing in a picturesque and commanding position at the head of the valley. This house, which was formerly called Heathfield Lodge, was erected, probably late in the eighteenth century, by George Grierson, King’s Printer, who was very wealthy, and who received £100,000 as commutation of his office at the time of the Union. After his death his three daughters, who inherited very little from him, as he had dissipated most of his wealth during his lifetime, resided here for many years, and altered the house into a Swiss chalet with a thatched roof and a balcony around of carved woodwork. They planted the gardens with many rare plants, as well as some magnificent rhododendrons, which still flourish there, and are the finest to be seen for many miles around. These ladies travelled a good deal, at a time when travelling was neither so easy nor so comfortable as it is at the present day, and their house was adorned with curios from many a foreign land. They endeavoured, with some success, to introduce wood carving in the Swiss style among the people in the valley. The house was ultimately destroyed by an accidental fire - nothing but the stonework being left - and the Misses Grierson were thereby reduced greatly in circumstances, as nearly everything they possessed perished in the flames.

A Mr. Cobbe next came into possession, and re-built the house in rather more solid fashion, with a slated roof, after which it became known for some time as “Cobbe’s Lodge.” It has changed hands several times since, and is maintained in excellent order by the present occupiers.

Close to the boundary wall of the grounds, at the western side, is a boulder weighing about a ton, known as “Finn MacCool’s Stone,” on which there formerly was a marble slab bearing an inscription to the effect that Finn carried the stone on his shoulder from the mountain on the opposite side of the valley. This slab has long since been removed, but the mark left by its insertion still remains.

The main stream of the Dodder flows immediately to the east of the house, and those who are not afraid of rough walking, may explore it in dry weather, for some distance towards its source on Kippure.

The transactions of the Ossianic Society contain translations of a number of old Irish poems relating to Glennasmole, Finn MacCool and his bodyguard of the Fena. In one of these - “The Chase of Glennasmole” - it is related how Finn with his famous hounds, Brann and Sgeolan, and a number of hunters and dogs met one misty morning in the glen to hunt deer. They started a piebald doe, but although they hunted her all day they were unable to overtake her, and when darkness set in, they found themselves far away among the wild hills without any of their hounds, which had all become lost in the excitement of the chase. After a time, however, Brann returned in sorry plight, and, lying down before Finn, howled. Presently a beautiful woman appeared on the scene and invited the whole party to a feast, which invitation they gladly accepted, as they were hungry and fatigued. When they had satisfied themselves at the feast, a hideous witch from Greece appeared and asked Finn to be her husband, which honour he declined. She was so enraged at his refusal, that she told them she would kill them all in spite of their renowned prowess, and setting off, assembled her fleet and sailed to Howth, where she landed and fought with Goll MacMorna the Brave for three days, while fifty amazons kept guard over the enchanted Fena. Just as the witch was about to overcome Goll, the Fena broke the enchantment, and rushing to battle, Oscar drove his spear through her heart, and the slaughter of her amazon bodyguard followed.

In another poem called “The Chase of Lough Lean” (Killarney), Oisin, who had travelled to Killarney to visit St. Patrick, recounts to him at great length the mighty deeds of the Fena and their hounds, and being indignant at the inhospitable treatment he received from the saint’s housekeeper, says: - “I have often slept abroad on the hills, under the grey dew [frost] on the foliage of the trees, and I was not accustomed to a supperless bed while there was a stag on yonder hill.” St. Patrick replies: - “Thou hast not bed without food, for thou gettest seven cakes of bread, large roll of butter [miscaun], and a quarter of beef every day.” To which Oisin rejoins: - “I saw a berry of the rowan tree [mountain ash] larger twice than thy roll, and I saw an ivy leaf larger and wider than thy cake of bread, and I saw a quarter of a blackbird which was larger than thy quarter of beef. It is this that fills my soul with sadness to be in thy house, poor-hearted wretch that thou art!”

To substantiate his statement, Oisin, though he was aged and blind, set out for Glennasmole, accompanied by a guide, with whose assistance he found a rowan tree on which were growing berries of a gigantic size, also some ivy leaves of corresponding dimensions which they careftilly preserved to show to St. Patrick. On their way back to Killarney they passed through the Curragh of Kildare, where Oisin sounded the Dord Fian, a magic chant, whereupon a flock of blackbirds, among which was one of immense size, answered the call. Oisin unleashed his favourite hound Brann, which, after a fierce and prolonged struggle, killed the gigantic bird. They then cut off the leg, and took it with the rowan berries and the ivy leaves to St. Patrick, who, it is to be hoped, was convinced thereby that he should accord more generous treatment to his guest.

In a poem called “The Finnian Hunt of Sliabh Truim,” it is related how Finn MacCool, after a victorious campaign through the country, slaying dragons, serpents, and all kinds of monsters, attacks and kills the terrible Arrach or dragon of Glennasmole.

Another poem called “The Adventures of the Amadan Mor,” tells how the Gruagach of the Golden Mantle, the Amadan Mor and his lady love were passing through Glennasmole: -

“‘Twas not long till they saw in the valley, A city that shone like gold, There was no colour which eye had seen, That was not in the mansion and many more.

“‘Twas then the young maiden asked What golden city is that, Of the finest appearance and hue, Or could it be betrayed or traversed?

“Dun-an-Oir [Fort of the Gold] is its name The strong Dun of Glen na Smoil, There is not now of its inhabitants alive, But myself and my wife.”

“The Glen through which thou has passed, Is always full of witchcraft.”

* * *

The description of the subsequent adventures of the party in Glennasmole, with giants, “gruagachs” (hairy fellows), and enchantments, however interesting from a mythological Point of view, is full of tiresome iteration, without any topographical allusions that would justify further quotations.

These poems probably date from about the 12th century, though some are much older. At that period the Glen must have presented an appearance entirely different from its present aspect, and wooded, as it doubtless was, to the tops of the high hills that encompass it, while its forest fastnesses sheltered the red deer and the wolf it would naturally have been regarded with superstitious fear by the simple country folk of that time.

Finn MacCool was the commander of an order of warriors called the Fianna or Fena, who rose to great power in the reign of Cormac MacArt in the 3rd century. After Finn, the most distinguished chieftains among these heroes were Oisin or Ossian, his son, Oscar, the son of Oisin, and Dermot O’Dyna.

Finn’s chief residence stood on the summit of the Hill of Allen, near Newbridge, where its site is now occupied by a pillar, and the whole neighbourhood, even at the present day, abounds with vivid traditions of the brave deeds of this great warrior and hero of the olden time.

With the passing of the heroic age, blackbirds have sadly degenerated, and rowan berries have shrunk to the size of haws, but the giant ivy still flourishes, and is to be found in abundance in many parts of the Glen. Wood sorrel, too, may be seen growing to a gigantic size, and Oisin, had he been so minded, might have utilised this fact also for the discomfiture of St. Patrick’s housekeeper.

Above the reservoir lakes the Dodder is formed of three principal streams - viz., Slade Brook, Cot Brook, and the main stream, which latter is composed of two smaller streams, Mareen’s Brook rising on the north-eastern slope of Kippure, and Tromanallison or Allison’s Brook, rising on the portion above Lough Bray, in a wild and almost inaccessible region, surrounded on all sides by dreary swamps and bogs. At Castlekelly the main stream is joined by Cot Brook, and a little lower down by Slade Brook, beyond which a number of smaller tributaries flow into the reservoirs.

It is a somewhat remarkable fact that the head waters of the Liffey and the Dodder, whose courses are so widely divergent until they meet at Ringsend, are within a few hundred yards of each other, on the eastern ridge of Kippure.

On account of the number of rowan trees along its banks, and the rough and rocky nature of its course, the upper reach of the main stream of the Dodder is sometimes called “The Cataract of the Rowan Tree,” a name which is, however, more properly applicable to the portion about seven-eighths of a mile above Glennasmole Lodge, where there are a couple of picturesque waterfalls. One precipitous part of the course is known as St. Mary’s Cliff - the home of the giant ivy celebrated in Ossianic romance.

If the weather be dry, the return to town may be made by ascending the eastern side of the valley until the Military road is reached. This, however, entails a pretty stiff climb, and probably most of the visitors after a day’s rambling about this wild country, will be satisfied to return either by the Glassamucky or Piperstown road to Tallaght, from which the steam tram can be taken to Terenure.

Distances: - From Tallaght to Glennasmole Lodge by the Waterworks pathway, 5½ miles; by Friarstown and Glassamucky, 5½miles. If the return is made by climbing the side of the valley and taking the Piperstown road back to Tallaght, the distance will be about 6 miles from Glennasmole Lodge. Returning by the Military road will entail walking to Rathfarnham, which will add about a mile to the journey. The whole of the route described is practicable for cyclists as far as Glennasmole Lodge, but a good deal of walking will be necessary.

The authorities consulted in the preparation of this chapter are: - Handcock’s History and Antiquities of Tallaght; The Transactions of the Ossianic Society; Dalton’s History of the County of Dublin; and Joyce’s Irish Names of Places.