Tours of Dublin from 1905

A Bill was next introduced into Parliament, the promoters relying on the liberality of the citizens for the future maintenance of the Park. This failed. The following year, it was proposed to give the square to the Government, charging the city with the maintenance; this Bill the Corporation successfully opposed, as also another the following year, which proposed to give the square to the Corporation, a trust that body declined. A fourth Bill met a similar fate. The Commissioners then petitioned to he relieved from their trust, or supported in their rights.

In 1867 the Royal Dublin Society held a Horse and Cattle Show in the grounds, the square being entirely enclosed by a strong wooden hoarding. This was a most successful show, and was the precursor of the present building and grounds of the Royal Dublin Society at Ballsbridge. In the same year a statue was erected to the late Earl of Eglinton, who was very popular whilst Lord Lieutenant of Ireland.

Sir Arthur Guinness (now Lord Ardilaun) next came forward and undertook to relieve the Commissioners from their debts in connection with St. Stephen’s Green, make it suitable for a public park, and hand it over, when completed, to the Board of Public Works for future maintenance. Nobly has the undertaking been fulfilled. The park is a triumph of landscape gardening, and may now rank as one of the finest and most beautiful squares in Europe. An ornamental lake was formed, the water entering from a dell on the west side, where, bounding over fantastically placed rocks, it forms a cascade of great beauty. Foreign water-fowl disport themselves in the lake. Fountains are placed in effective positions. Trees, plants, shrubs, and flowers are in profusion. Rustic shelters have been erected, and seats provided for the weary. The cost of laying out and planting the grounds, is supposed to have been £8,000; but many, in a position to know, declare that triple that amount is nearer the cost. A view of a nook in St. Stephen’s Green, with a seated figure of Lord Ardilaun, mounted on polished granite is here given.

On the north side of Stephen’s Green are situate the D. B. C. Restaurant, the Army and Navy Club, the University Club, and the Shelbourne Hotel; on the east side, the Museum of the Royal College of Science (open daily), and the St. Vincent Hospital, in charge of the Sisters of Charity; on the south side the town residence of Lord Iveagh, an extensive building in Portland stone; the building of the Catholic University, with its Chapel open to the public; Wesleyan Centenary Chapel; Training School for Hospital Nurses, and the Temperance Hotel, directed by T. W, Russell, M.P., temperance advocate. On the west side a pretty little Unitarian Church, the Royal College of Surgeons (an excellent Museum of Anatomy is attached), and Hovendon and Orr’s Mineral Water Manufactory (formerly Dycer’s celebrated Horse Repository and Carriage establishment).

In the north western corner is South King-street, and a short distance down on the right is the Gaiety Theatre.

graftonst1.jpg (60043 bytes)At this corner also is Grafton-street, the most fashionable business street in the city, and containing some of the finest shops and showrooms. About the centre of the north side of the Green Dawson-street runs off. This street contains St. Anne’s Church, with a very effective front in the Norman style, and also the Hibernian Hotel. On the right-hand side, standing back from the street, is the Mansion House, the official residence of the Lord Mayor of Dublin. The house is unpretentious in appearance, but it contains some fine apartments and magnificent portraits. Among the finest rooms are the Oak Room, about 30 feet long, and the Round Room, a superb circular chamber, 90 feet in diameter, lighted by a lantern 50 feet from the ground; a supper room was added in 1892.

In the garden there is an equestrian statue of King George I., which was erected in 1720, on Essex (now Grattan) Bridge, and transferred in 1798 to its present position.

Museum and National Library.

Turning to the right, a little further, down Molesworth-street, we pass the Masonic Hall and emerge into Kildare-street directly opposite a pile of buildings, that for architectural magnificence is equal to any produced in the Kingdom during the present century. The older building facing Molesworth-street is known as Leinster House, and was formerly the town residence of the Duke of Leinster. It has for many years past been in the care of the Royal Dublin Society, and possesses many interesting historical associations. Entering the grounds from Kildare-street the building on the right is the National Museum. Passing through the semicircular colonnade the Rotunda is first entered, a fine and graceful apartment, 60 feet in diameter, with a domed roof and gallery supported on 20 columns of Irish marble. The attendants sell general catalogues for threepence and also catalogues for the special departments, but the Museum is so well labelled that these are hardly necessary, especially as in each room a plan of the building is hung up with the room marked in colour. The Museum will be found most interesting, whether for a short or extended visit.

Opposite to the Museum is the National Library, which contains a fine entrance hall and a staircase leading to the principal reading-room, which is a horse-shoe shaped apartment, 70 feet by 60 feet, with a domed roof. Having inspected the Museum we can pass out through the National History Museum, and emerge on the south side of Leinster Lawn, facing Merrion-square.

On the north side of this lawn is the National Gallery of Paintings. This building contains a handsome staircase and a fine collection of ancient and modern paintings. It is open free on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 12 till dusk, and on Sundays from 2 o’clock. On Thursdays and Fridays it is open from 10 till 4, and a charge of sixpence is made; a good critical and descriptive catalogue can be had for sixpence.

Merrion-square, at which we arrive after leaving the National Gallery, is the largest of the Dublin squares, after St. Stephen’s Green. It contains about twelve and a half acres, and is beautifully laid out, but is not open to the public. The houses surrounding the square are favourite residences for doctors.

Fourth Day.

Guinness’s Brewery is one of the finest sights of the city, and after our visit to St. Patrick’s Cathedral and St. Stephen’s Green, we naturally desire to see the source of supply of these benefactions. The Brewery is open to visitors on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays in each week, at the hours of 11.30, 1** **and 3 o’clock. It will, therefore, be necessary to select one of those days and hours, or obtain a special order from some influential trader in the city which will admit on other days. Being so provided, we reach College Green, mount the roof of the Inchicore tram (fare 1d.) and request the conductor to put us down at Guinness’s Gate. On our journey we again pass the City Hall, the Castle, Christ Church Cathedral; further on we pass the R. C. Church of St. Audoen. In July, 1885, the entire ceiling over the transept of this church fell with a terrible crash. Fortunately the accident occurred when the building was empty, otherwise the loss of life might have been great. St. Audeon’s Protestant Church comes next to our right, standing back from the roadway. This church, next to the Cathedral buildings, is the most interesting ecclesiastical building in Dublin. It was founded in 1171, and rebuilt or repaired by Lord Portlester in the 15th century. Effigies of this nobleman and his wife, dating from 1455, stand in the porch. There is a Norman door leading into the body of the church, and the original Norman font is still used. The tower contains six bells, one bearing date 1423, and some of the communion plate dates from 1624. North of St. Audeon’s Church is Audeon’s Arch, the only remaining gateway of the old city walls. It dates from 1315 and is 26 feet high. 15 feet wide, and 20 feet deep. Only a few feet of the tower remains above the arch.

Further on the Roman Catholic Church of Saints Augustine and John is passed, one of the finest churches in Dublin. The magnificent oblong tower with spire rises to a height of 160 feet. A conspicuous feature of the ornate front of this church is the lofty arched recess containing the richly carved door and great window. The interior is also impressive. Next on the left is St. Catherine’s Church, an unpretending building, which is chiefly remarkable for the fact that in front of it was erected the scaffold on which was executed the ill-fated Robert Emmet. Close by is the house (153 Thomas-street) where Lord Edward Fitzgerald was arrested in 1798. In defending himself from capture, Lord Edward received wounds of which he died soon after. The brewery is close at hand and an hour or two spent there will be found interesting and instructive. It may be mentioned that the brewery business of the Guinness family began about 150 years ago and that the brewery is one of the largest and best equipped, as well as the most famous, in the world.

Presuming that our visit to the Brewery and the possible tasting of the celebrated “XXX Stout” has not spoiled our inclination for further research, we once more mount the Inchicore tram at Watling-street, and request to be set down at Kilmainham Jail (fare 1d.) On our way thither we pass the Roman Catholic Church of St. James; the Protestant Church of St. James; in the centre of the roadway an obelisk known as “the big fountain;” a little further on to our left, the South Dublin Union Workhouse - its massive gateway indicating the extent of the premises - and soon after we reach our point of departure. A glance at the exterior of the County Court and Kilmainham Jail, will, no doubt, be sufficient. To obtain access to the interior either as inmate or visitor - requires time and trouble not at our disposal. Turning our backs to the jail, we observe a tower and gateway, guarded by military, through which is seen an avenue formed by noble oak trees, with branches intertwining and forming a leafy canopy overhead. This tower originally formed one of the gates of the city, and occupied the space between Watling-street and “Bloody Bridge,” an old fashioned stone bridge spanning the Liffey (long since replaced by the iron bridge called “Victoria Bridge”). Up to about the year £850, a military guard occupied the tower night and day, the sentry being posted with as much ceremony and regularity as if the city were a fortified one, and an enemy around its walls. The absurdity of this proceeding at length manifested itself to the authorities, and the military guard was replaced by a couple of pensioners from the Royal Hospital, who whiled away the hours by waking up and down, by whisking with light canes imaginary dust off their uniform trousers, and otherwise upholding the dignity of “the service.” The traffic in that direction, however, increased so rapidly after the opening of the Great Southern and Western Line, that the tower became a hindrance, and leave was given to have it removed, a condition being that it should be re-erected in a suitable place. Its present site was selected, and there it stands, almost as perfect as if lifted bodily from its former position.

Passing through the gateway along the avenue we reach the main building, the Royal Hospital for Old Soldiers. It is built on a portion of the property formerly owned by the Knights Templars, and was erected from the designs of the renowned Sir Christopher Wren, architect of St. Paul’s, London, at a cost of about £25,000. In form the Royal Hospital is a quadrangle, 306 feet by 288 feet, and enclosing a courtyard 210 feet square. The Great Hall is a magnificent apartment, 100 feet long by 50 feet, and lofty in proportion. It is wainscotted in oak and ornamented with portraits of sovereigns. The walls are further decorated with a valuable collection of armour and weapons. There is a fine fireplace, a curious collection of old books, and glass cases of medals. The entrance to the Great Hall is imposing, projecting 17½ feet by 60 feet, and ornamented with Corinthian pilasters.

The Chapel, which is 80 feet by 40, has a beautifully ornamented ceiling; the east window is supposed to be a relic of the priory. The wainscotting is of oak; the pews, seats, and pulpit are of the same material. The light is softened as it finds its way through the beautiful stained glass windows - the designs on which represent, in most instances, the family arms of the Viceroys of Ireland. The Adjutant-General’s office is to our right as we leave the building by the western gate. Here the military business of the district is transacted. Until the recent alteration in the law respecting it, pensioners were obliged to attend here personally to receive their stipends. It is now optional - the money can be received through any district Money Order Office.

Walking towards the city, we find on our left hand the terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway, and on our right Madame Steven’s Hospital. The tram-car running from Kingsbridge along the river embankment to O’Connell Bridge will soon deposit us in the heart of the city (fare 1d.), quite close to the O’Connell Monument.

Should time and circumstances permit, a most agreeable afternoon may be spent by dining at the Railway Hotel, close to the G.S. and W.R. Station; then, instead of taking the tram-car, cross the Kingsbridge, turn to the left towards the Phoenix Park, and take the electric train to Lucan (Fares, third class, 1s.; second class, 1s. 3d.; first class, is 1s. 6d.

The journey is a delightful one, and Lucan affords ample accommodation for visitors. The village and the neighbourhood will be found fully described in the excursion for the Ninth Day.

Fifth Day.

o'connell4.jpg (49892 bytes)Taking the statue of O’Brien at O’Connell Bridge as our starting point, we proceed along the south bank of the river, towards the Custom House. We pass on our way Hawkins-street, and may observe in that street the new Theatre Royal, built upon the site of the old Theatre Royal, which was destroyed by fire on February 9th, 1880, the stage manager, Frank Egerton, falling a victim to the flames on the occasion. The lessee, the late Michael Gunn, Esq., lessee and manager of the Gaiety Theatre, Dublin, did not see fit to restore the building as a theatre, but, instead, built a splendid concert hall, in which many great artistes appeared from time to time. Operas - Italian and English - as well as other entertainments, were also given. The Leinster Hall, as it was called, was not, however, a success; and, urged by pressure from the public, and other circumstances, Mr. Gunn eventually sold his rights to the enterprising theatrical managers, Messrs. Morel and Mouillot, who have transformed the hall into one of the most commodious and handsome theatres in the kingdom. It is open almost the entire year. A few paces further on we come to the Corn Exchange, a busy scene on market days. Immediately adjoining, is the once famed Conciliation Hall, where O’Connell and his coadjutors held the Repeal Meetings. The hall is now used as a Variety Theatre, called “The Tivoli,” and is a very pretty and well-planned building. The Swivel Bridge (Butt Bridge) is now at hand; before crossing the useful but inelegant structure, we take a look at the Custom House, which shows to great advantage from this point.

The Custom House.

customhouse.jpg (49667 bytes)A magnificent building, which was designed by Mr. James Gandon, and erected entirely under his supervision. The foundation stone was laid on the 8th August, 1781, and the building was completed in 1791. The cost, including the docks was about £400,000. The river embankment had been previously completed. The building is of the Doric order; in form an oblong quadrangle, 325 feet long, by 205 wide. Over the portico in the centre is a handsome cupola, with copper covered dome 26 feet in diameter, 125 feet from the ground. A statue of Hope, resting on an anchor, ornaments it. The figure is 16 feet in height, and 113 feet from the ground. Emblematic statues of Neptune, Plenty, Industry, and Mercury ornament the portico, on the southern elevation. Britannia and Hibernia, embracing each other, appear in alto-relievo, on a car of shell, Hibernia pointing to a fleet of vessels, and Mercury with his trident driving away Famine and Despair. On the northern front, emblematic statues of Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, similarly ornament the portico.

Over the building are 16 carved heads representing the principal rivers in Ireland. The female head stands for Anna Liffey from which, however, it is not to be supposed that the “Anna” is the familiar female name. Though exteriorly the Custom House is one of the finest buildings in Dublin, the interior is disappointing. The Long Room, 70 feet by 70 feet, containing two rows of pillars and an arched roof, is the principal department. A number of the Government offices, ‘in addition to the Custom’s department, are contained in the building.

The old Custom House occupied the space on which now stands the buildings at the east corner of Parliament-street. Great opposition was given to the removal of the Custom House further east, it being thought - and with some show of reason - that the trade of the city would follow its removal. The piles were torn and broker, and the workmen maltreated to such an extent that eventually the military were requisitioned to preserve the peace, and permit the work to be carried on.

Proceeding along Lower Abbey-street, we may well be surprised at the numerous places of worship surrounding - Presbyterian, Wesleyan, Methodist, Baptist, Salvation Army, and an enormous building called “The Christian Union Buildings,” designed to attract all denominations. In the latter building, “Christian Conventions ” are held annually, and the leading preachers of the various sects are engaged to deliver lectures and discourses.

The Mechanics’ Institute is on the south side of the street. The members possess an extensive Library, and there is a Reading-room attached, to which visitors are admitted on payment of a small fee. The theatre of the Institute was until recently a mediocre Music Hall. It has, however, within the past year been entirely renovated, and fitted as a first-class, though small, theatre, for the production of Irish drama. Plays on Irish subjects, both in Gaelic and in English, are periodically given. The side entrance round the corner to the left is through a stone-faced building, which was until a few years ago the city Morgue. The new Morgue is in Store-street, near the Great Northern Railway Terminus.

Nearer to Sackville-street is the Royal Hibernian Academy of Paintings. The annual exhibition of paintings is usually held from March to May. On one side of the Academy will be found the publishing offices of the *Irish Cyclist and Wheelman, The Motor News, Irish Golfer *and *Irish Builder, *and on the other Wynn’s Hotel, a first-class establishment for tourists and others. Retracing our steps a short distance we proceed northwards (left) through Marlborough-street, and reach the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary, commonly called the Pro-Cathedral. This is a fine Grecian structure, built at a cost of £40,000, on the site of Annesley House, from the design of an amateur artist living in Paris. The chief facade consists of a portico raised on a platform, approached by steps. The portico projects 10 feet, and has six fluted Doric columns supporting an entablature and pediment bearing statues of the Virgin, St. Patrick, and St. Laurence O’Toole. The interior, which has been much improved by bright colouring, is divided by two colonnades into a nave and aisles. The magnificent altar of white marble was executed by Turnerelli. It is detached from the walls and enclosed by a circular railing. On either side of the entrance are statues by Farrell, one being Cardinal Cullen and the other Archbishop Murray. In the aisles ‘are a number of mural monuments, mostly of the conventional type, but a few deserve notice as works of art, especially that to the memory of one John Purcell, from the hand of John Hogan, the late eminent sculptor. The ambulatory of the Cathedral contains two handsome altars.

Opposite the Cathedral are the Model Training Schools of the National Board of Education. The original building was once the residence of Lord Waterford, and was called Tyrone House. Additional buildings have been, from time to time, added to suit the requirements of the Educational system. A statue to the memory of the late Right Hon. Alexander McDonnell, Resident Commissioner, is erected in the lawn. It is of white marble. The likeness is said to be good, and the *pose *of the figure sufficiently characteristic.

We now return to Sackville-street, and may find it an opportune moment to ascend Nelson’s Pillar The caretaker will be found at his post on the southern side of the pillar. The fee, as already stated, is threepence.

We next proceed eastward by Henry-street and Mary-street, or by the line of’ quays from O’Connell Bridge. The former is a street of some commercial importance; in it are situated the old established house of Todd, Burns and Co., general outfitters and house furnishers; Arnott and Co., a magnificent building, erected on the site of the original premises recently destroyed by fire; the Henry-street Warehouse Co., Bewley and Draper, the celebrated Mineral Water Manufacturers and Chemists; the Apothecaries’ Hall, the Parish Church of St. Mary’s, and the new buildings for Jervis-street Hospital, in Jervis-street.

Five minutes’ walk will now bring us opposite to The Four Courts, built to accommodate the Court of Chancery, Court of Exchequer, King’s Bench, and Common Pleas - hence usually called the Four Courts.

The building was commenced in 1776 by Thomas Cooley, who died soon afterwards, Gandon, architect of the Custom House, and portion of Houses of Parliament, completing the work in 1800. The total cost of the main building was £200,000. Extensive additions have been built in the rere for the further accommodation of the Courts. The principal edifice (440 ft. in front, and 170 ft. deep to the rere) is a splendid pile surmounted by a fine dome, which is ornamented by 24 graceful Corinthian columns. The main entrance is through a portico of six Corinthian columns with pediment. On the apex of the pediment is a statue of Moses, and at either side figures of Justice and Mercury, while at each corner of the front are seated figures emblematic of Wisdom and Authority. On entering through the main front we come at once into the Great Central Hall, in which are the entrances to the Courts. Each of these is entered between pairs of Corinthian columns 20 feet high. Above are four historical paintings, representing William the Conqueror instituting Courts of Justice; King John signing Magna Charta; Henry II. granting the first charter to Dublin; James I. abolishing the Brehon Laws. The dome is splendidly proportioned. Between the windows are colossal statues of Liberty, Justice, Wisdom, Law, Prudence, Mercy, Eloquence, and Punishment. In the Hall are several fine statues, representing some of the most distinguished members of the Irish Bar - Richard Lalor Shiel, patriot, poet, and lawyer, one of the most earnest advocates of Catholic Emancipation in Ireland, Sir Michael O’Loughlin, Plunket, Joy, Whiteside - the latter obtained great notoriety by his eloquent advocacy of the claims of Miss Longworth, in the celebrated case of “Longworth *v. *Yelverton.”

A visit to the Library can be secured only through some barrister, and if this can be obtained the Library is well worth seeing, as it is a busy spot when the Courts are sitting. The Courts themselves are small, but well lit, and they are worth dropping into for a short time, especially if some great case is on. Leaving the Four Courts by the rere entrance, we turn to our right and soon find ourselves at the new Vegetable and Fish Markets, erected a few years since by the Corporation of Dublin. The briskness of the early morning trade has probably fallen off considerably at the hour of our visit, but all the better opportunity will be afforded to view the great span of the roof and the facilities given for the arrival, sale, and departure of the various commodities dealt with.

Close at hand is St. Michan’s Church, the oldest religious edifice in the city, except Christ Church, and the only one in the city, with the exception of the neighbouring Catholic Church of the same name, dedicated to a Danish saint. The great feature is its antiquated square tower with embattled parapets, and supposed by some to be the original tower of the eleventh century. The interior contains portions of some old tombs and a recumbent effigy reputed to be that of the patron of the church. On the front of the organ case is a fine carving of musical instruments. There are extensive vaults under the church, still occasionally used for interment. They possess the curious prop of preserving bodies from decay. The Brothers Sheares, executed as rebels, 1798, are buried here, and their bodies are still in good preservation. In the churchyard adjoining are numerous interesting graves, including those of Lucas and some of the United Irishmen. An uninscribed slab is also pointed out. This is supposed to mark the resting place of Robert Emmet, but as to whether his remains really repose there, there is considerable dispute, the balance of evidence being probably in favour of Glasnevin churchyard.

Proceeding further up the somewhat uninviting thoroughfare, we reach Constitution Hill, and on the right hand side notice the Inns of Court, or ” The King’s Inn.” This building, another proof of Gandon’s skill and taste as an architect, was erected about 1790. It contains the Prerogative Court and the Registry of Deeds Office. A magnificent Library was added in 1827, at a cost of £20,000. This Library is entitled to a copy of every work entered at Stationers’ Hall. The front entrance is in Henrietta-street, but the view from our present standpoint is the best.

A little further on is a lofty viaduct carrying the roadway over Phibsborough-road to the Terminus of the Midland Railway. An aqueduct formerly occupied the spot, Through which flowed the waters of the Canal, into a harbour, now filled in and built upon. The Terminus of the Midland Great Western Railway is a plain massive building; from its situation, in deed, adornment would have been completely thrown away. Retracing our steps, we continue eastward through North Brunswick-street, passing the entrance to the Richmond Lunatic Asylum, the Whitworth Hospital, the Hardwicke Hospital and the North Union Hospital, all grouped together. A short distance further on is the Richmond Surgical Hospital. We soon reach Oxmantown, and, opposite Blackball-place, discover the Hospital and Free School of Charles II., commonly called the “Bluecoat Hospital.” It was established by charter, in 1670, for “maintaining, clothing, educating, and apprenticing the sons of reduced citizens of Dublin.” The pupils formerly wore a costume consisting of a blue body coat, knee breeches, and yellow stockings, which has been altered for some years past, to a style more in keeping with modern ideas.

We are now quite close to the Royal Barracks, Parkgate, and the line of quays, and by crossing Kingsbridge, an iron structure erected in 1821, to commemorate the visit of George IV., we can get a good view of the handsome terminus of the Great Southern Railway, and still further to the left, Steven’s Hospital.

Sufficiently tired, we now, perhaps, are glad to avail ourselves of the Tramcar running to O’Connell Bridge, along the quays, or to engage one of the numerous cabs or “outsides ” in the vicinity to rake us home direct.

Sixth Day.

Howth.

An ideal way of spending a fine summer day is offered by an excursion to Howth, which is distant about nine miles from the city. Trains from Amiens-street Station run about every hour, and a combined return ticket may be taken enabling the tourist to leave the train at Sutton Station and take the Electric Tram round the Head to Howth, returning direct from the latter station by train. By taking this route, which is very cheap, one is enabled to enjoy at his ease the splendid scenery unfolded during the tram-ride over the hill.

Shortly after leaving the station at Amiens-street a view is obtained of the entrance to Dublin Harbour, with the bay beyond. The two breakwaters will be noticed, that on the south side terminating in a long granite wall, over a mile in length, while the northern breakwater (the Bull Wall) projects from Dollymount for about a mile. While the train is traversing the embankment across an arm of the bay - an unpleasant stretch of mud when the tide is out - Marino Mansion will be seen on the left. This was formerly the residence of Lord Charlemont, and is surrounded by a beautiful and well-wooded demesne. The most interesting object in the grounds is the Temple, an architectural gem, Doric in style, and beautifully ornamented. The neighbourhood through which we are now passing is celebrated in history as the scene of the memorable Battle of Clontarf, in which Brian Boro defeated the Danes.

As we near Howth the village of Baldoyle, important only in consequence of its racecourse, is seen to the left, the Grand Stand being plainly discernible over the roofs of the cottages. Having reached Sutton the electric car will be found waiting, and will start almost immediately after the arrival of the train.

The route followed by this tramcar crosses the Howth-road after a short distance, and winds along the western shore of the peninsula. In a little while the road curves to the left, and begins the ascent of the hill.

On the right will be noticed a graveyard, in which stand the ruins of St. Fintan’s Church, a small edifice dating from about the same period as the Abbey Church at Howth. Fine views are now afforded of the bleak, rocky sides of the hill rising in front, and of the expanse of Dublin Bay, seen at intervals through the trees on the right.

After a pleasant run the summit is reached, where a stay of some hours may he made. Here there is a fine refreshment room and a band stand, where band performances are given in the season.

Passing the refreshment saloon and facing up the hill, we soon surmount the crest and arrive within sight of the Bailey Lighthouse, built in 1814. It stands upon a jutting rock 110 feet above sea level. The Lighthouse may be visited, in which case the interesting gas apparatus and burners, invented by Mr. Wigham, of Dublin, can be inspected, and, of course, the view from the house is superb. The latter is the case, however, from any vantage point in this neighbourhood. In all directions there are glorious walks and fine cliff scenery. Near the Bailey is Freshwater Bay and Castlena Rock, on which the passenger steamer, “Queen Victoria,” was wrecked in 1853. The ill-fated vessel was driven ashore during a severe storm (the beacon light being completely obscured by a thick coating of snow), and about 200 passengers and crew were lost. Having at our leisure enjoyed the scenery and inhaled the fresh breezes from the sea and mountain, we can regain the tram line and resume our journey into Howth.

Soon Ireland’s Eye and Lambay come into view, and then the line falls rapidly to the village. The descent, in fact, is so rapid, that the tram road is built in a series of zig-zag curves.

Howth itself is a poor fishing village, but of late years it has grown into a favourite bathing-place and seaside resort. It was originally intended to be a packet station, and the harbour was constructed with that object. In 1821 George IV. landed on the pier. The harbour is small, and more than half dry at low water. Overlooking it is an interesting ecclesiastical ruin called the “Abbey of Howth.” It dates from the early part of the 13th century, and has a triple belfry, the bells of which are preserved in Howth Castle. In the graveyard is a 16th century tomb, in which are interred some of the ancestors of Lord Howth. Close by is “the College,” a peculiar group of buildings, which are now occupied as dwellings. The Castle of Howth is on the inland side of the hill, standing in well wooded grounds. Sir Amoricus Tristram, founder of the Howth family, is said to have been one of the most courageous of the Anglo-Norman invaders, and to have obtained a signal victory over the natives at the north side of Howth, for which he was rewarded with a baronial title and estate.

The family name was subsequently changed to that of St. Lawrence. In 1767, the then baron was created Viscount St. Lawrence and Earl of Howth. The castle contains a collection of weapons, including a two-handed sword, said to have been wielded by Sir Amoricus. There is also a painting representing the abduction of one of the young lords by Grace O’Malley, or Granuaile. The story is as follows:-

Driven by stress of weather on the eastern coast of Ireland, when returning from her visit to Queen Elizabeth, at the English Court, Granuaile demanded hospitality from the Lord of Howth. An ungracious refusal was given; in revenge the western queen abducted the young lord, retaining him in captivity for some years. He was eventually restored to his parents, Granuaile exacting certain terms. Among the conditions, the baron agreed that he and his descendants should be bound to keep open house for all who might claim their hospitality. Be the story true or false, the Howth family have always been remarkable for hospitality.

The grounds of the Castle are far-famed for the fine display of rhododendrons which are to be seen there, and at the foot of the overhanging rocks of Carickmore. to the west of the Castle, is the great cromlech, consisting of 10 huge stones, including the table, a vast block measuring 14 feet by 12 feet, and computed to weigh 90 tons.

About a mile from the mouth of the harbour, though looking much nearer, is Ireland’s Eye, with its precipitous and fantastic rocks on the eastern side. The ancient name of this island was Inis-mac-Nessan, and there are on it the ruins of St. Nessan’ S Church, with a portion of the round tower attached. A boat to the island may be had for a few shillings, and a visit paid to the rocks and caves, and the cliffs on the seaward side. If time allows of it, a row might also be taken round the island. If the latter excursion be indulged in, the boatman will probably have some stories to relate of a cruel murder which was perpetrated on the island in 1852, when a Dublin artist named Kirwan killed his wife at a place called “The Long Hole.” He was sentenced to be hanged, but was reprieved and imprisoned for life.

Howth may also be reached by electric car, starting from Nelson’s Pillar (north side). (Fare 5d. each way). The journey is a delightful and refreshing one, especially in the summer and autumn months, and if an outside seat can be obtained. The road runs alongside the railway until the bridge at Clontarf is reached, at which point the roads diverge-the railway running inland, the electric cars following the roadway, which is lapped by the sea for almost its entire length. During the journey the same views as those seen from the railway carriages are observable, also Danesfield, Clontarf, where the Danes were defeated by Brian Boroihme. At Dollymount, the journey may be broken, and refreshments obtained, but we do not recommend this plan, as Howth itself will occupy sufficient attention.

Malahide,

a pretty little town, and watering place, may be easily reached by car from Howth, or by leaving Howth to intercept the 4.15 train at the Junction Station. The principal object of interest is Malahide Castle, the seat of Lord Talbot de Malahide. It is a large square building, flanked by lofty circular towers. The grand hall is roofed with richly carved ancient Irish oak. In the drawing-room, amongst other valuable paintings, is a small altar piece by Albert Durer, said to have been originally in the oratory of Mary Queen of Scots, at Holyrood House. The grounds and gardens of the castle are beautifully laid out, and are open daily to visitors. Malahide Abbey, adjoining the Castle, contains a well-executed window and some interesting tombs, notably that of the Hon. Maud Plunkett, whose first husband was slain on her wedding day, thus bringing it to pass that in one day she was maid, wife and widow. The village is a favourite resort, and contains a first-class hotel. **

First Day.

Trinity College - College Green - Bank of Ireland - O’Connell Bridge - General Post Office - Glasnevin - Botanic Gardens - Prospect Cemetery - Phoenix.**

trinity2.jpg (29663 bytes)For the first day’s ramble through Dublin, Trinity College, standing on the east side of College Green, may he taken as a starting point. Trinity College was founded in 1591, under the charter of Queen Elizabeth, by Adam Loftus, Archbishop of Dublin, and Lucas Challoner, a former Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. It was called the College of the “Holy and Indivisible Trinity, near Dublin.” The ground on which is was* *built was the site of an ancient nunnery, and was given to the founders by a free grant of the Dublin Corporation. The original buildings were of red Dutch brick, and occupied, until 1759, a position between the present Campanile and the Examination Hall. The oldest buildings now existing in Trinity are the residential parts of Library Square, which date from the time of Queen Anne, and to these, from time to time, have been added within the great area covered by the College grounds magnificent new buildings for various purposes, until now Trinity College is far and away vaster than any individual College of either Oxford or Cambridge. it is very richly endowed, having been granted by James I. and Charles II. large tracts of confiscated lands in various parts of Ireland. It has also been the recipient of numerous bequests from private individuals. The external facade of the College is built of Portland stone in the Corinthian style. At either side of the entrance are bronze statues of Burke and Goldsmith, two magnificent specimens of the former Foley’s work. Passing through the archway, the visitor finds himself in Parliament Square, built, on the demolition of the original buildings, in 1759. On the right is the Examination Hall, the front of which consists of a fine portico, with four Roman-Corinthian columns, rising from a base of three steps, and supporting the usual pediment. The Examination Theatre within is a fine, well-lighted chamber. The walls are adorned with composite pillasters surmounted by a fine stucco frieze and cornice and a richly-decorated ceiling. On the right wall is Hewetton’s monument to Provost Baldwin, who left a legacy of £80,000 to the College. Here are also portraits of Dean Swift, Bishop Berkeley, Archbishop Usher and others. The organ in the gallery is usually supposed to have been taken from one of the Spanish Armada ships wrecked on the Irish coast, but it was in reality taken from a Spanish ship captured in Vigo Bay. The chandelier, designed for sixty candles, is of carved oak, gilt. It originally belonged to the Irish House of Commons. Opposite to the Examination Hall, and precisely similar in external design, is the Chapel. It contains some fine stained glass windows, one of then being a copy of Raphael’s Ascension. There is an elaborately-carved oak wainscotting and a coved ceiling with elaborate stucco .work. On the same side as the chapel is the Dining Hall, built in 1745. It is 70 feet long by 35 feet broad, and 35 feet high. It is wainscotted to a height of 12 feet in oak, and is ornamented with portraits of Grattan, Flood, and other distinguished *alumni. *The Campanile, a graceful monument, was erected in 1852 by Lord George Beresford. A circular belfry is surrounded by eight Corinthian pillars, supporting the dome, which is surmounted by a smaller dome with a gilt cross. The College bell is too large to swing in the chamber, and is therefore only rung by being struck. By far the most interesting thing, however, to be seen in Trinity is the Library, the entrance to which is to the right of the Campanile. It was founded in 1601 by a subscription raised by some of Elizabeth’s soldiers, to commemorate their victory over the Spaniards at Kinsale. It contains the valuable library of Sir Thomas Bodley, presented much later to the College by the soldiers in Ireland, who thus emulated the generosity to the College of their predecessors. The Library has the right, shared with four other great libraries, of receiving free of charge a copy of every book published in the Kingdom. Among the objects of interest to be seen here, chief mention is to be made of the superbly illuminated books written by the Irish saints, and elaborately ornamented with Celtic tracery. The most famous of these books is the Book of Kells, a manuscript, the delicacy of whose work is indescribably fine. It has been called the most beautiful book in the world. Other hooks are, the Book of Leinster, the Book of Armagh, and the Book of Drimna Then there are also the Harp of King Brian Boru, several ancient Irish gold ornaments, and a host of other objects of interest, which it would be impossible to see in one visit.

Before leaving the College grounds, a visit should be paid to the New Buildings, designed by Sir Thomas Deane. This noble pile is in the style of a Venetian palace, and has been praised by no less a critic than Mr. Ruskin. The doorway, main hall and staircase are exceedingly beautiful; all the marbles, which are very effective, are Irish. The clock on the stairs is regulated by an electric current from Dunsink Observatory, as is also the clock over the front entrance to the College. Adjoining the College Park are the Medical School, Anatomical Museum, Dissecting Rooms, and Chemical Laboratories, as well as other buildings.

College Green

collegegreen1.jpg (59401 bytes)Emerging from old Trinity our tourist has before him College Green, an open space as imposing as may he found in any city. Though not in itself large, it gains dignity and elegance from the imposing buildings which surround it. These include, in addition to Trinity College, a magnificent range of banks, extending into Dame Street, on the south side, and on the north side the Bank of Ireland, of which more anon. Immediately opposite the College is the colossal bronze statue of Grattan, by Foley, and further up, towards Dame-street, is the equestrian statue of William III., Prince of Orange. This statue is remarkable for many reasons. In** **the first place, it is a somewhat mixed affair: the King being of lead, and the horse of copper. The steed, it will be observed, is somewhat elongated and bent in the back, as if his leaden Majesty were unduly heavy. The uplifted foreleg, if stretched, would hang some distance down the side of the pedestal, and the tail - well, no one can deny it *is a *fine tail!! But considering the vicissitudes the statue has undergone it is not too bad after all. It has been the object of the most elaborate decoration and the butt of countless insults. At one time decked with flowers and streamers, at others daubed with filth, or smeared with tar; it has been at times found in the morning minus the sword or a limb. On one occasion the King was actually blown off his horse, and completely shattered, his mutilated remains having to be collected from the neighbouring pavements and deftly pieced together. [The statue was eventually removed after being blown up in 1929. KF]

Bank of Ireland

The Bank of Ireland, the most conspicuous building in College Green, and the handsomest in Dublin, was, until 1800, the Parliament House of Ireland, a fact which endows it with a pathetic interest for many Irishmen, and invests it with the characteristics of a national monument. It is nearly semi-circular in form, and is mainly build in the Ionic order, but the noble portico facing eastwards towards College Street consists of six Corinthian columns. The principal object of interest in the interior is the House of Lords, which is used as the Board-room of the Bank, but remains in great measure unaltered. The old benches have been removed, but the table and chairs still remain in their places. The site of the throne is occupied by a statute of George III. The chamber is panelled and ornamented with columns of Riga oak. On the walls are two fine pieces of tapestry, executed by a Dutch artist. One is a representation of the Battle of the Boyne, and the other of the Siege of Derry. There is also a bust of the Duke of Wellington. Special notice should be taken of the fireplace, which is of Kilkenny marble Visitors can also see a large model in wood of the building, by Mr. Doolittle, and the printing of the bank notes is worth seeing.

Having left the Bank and proceeding northwards along Westmoreland Street we pass at the junction of College Street the monstrosity intended to perpetuate the memory of Thomas Moore, Ireland’s most graceful poet. [This slightly confused me as the statue is very traditional. A little research discovered that the “monstrosity” refers to the fact that the statue doesn’t resemble the poet. KF] This caricature in lead has long been an eyesore in the city, and it is to be hoped that the efforts of the Moore Memorial Committee to replace it by a worthier effigy may be successful. westmoreland1.jpg (49284 bytes)Westmoreland Street contains some fine office buildings and business premises, including those of Messrs. Cramer, Wood and Co., the pianoforte manufacturers and importers, and the various offices in connection with the Port and Docks Board and the Commissioners of Irish Lights, held in the large, but unpretentious pile of buildings at the corner of the street. On the roof of this building, which is known in Dublin as the Ballast Office, is placed a time ball-connected by electricity with the Observatory at Dunsink - which drops at the hour of one o’clock, Dublin time. This building narrowly escaped destruction by fire in 1866. A portion of the premises was at the time occupied by Mr. Delaney, a merchant tailor who, with his family, used the upper part of the house as a dwelling. Soon after the shop had been closed for the day fire was noticed in it by some passers-by. The flames spread rapidly, cutting off all chance of escape for the inmates by the ordinary means. The fire-brigade, newly organised and imperfectly drilled, were unequal to the emergency. The only available fire escape was - through the ill-judged interference of the excited crowd

• wrecked in an instant; and as a result six persons were consumed before the eyes of over 4,000 agonised and horrified spectators - the rays of the setting sun and azure of a cloudless sky forming as strong a contrast to the cruel scene as could be well conceived. Out of evil oftentimes comes good, and the tragic incident here related was the principal means of perfecting and consolidating a system of fire brigade services equal to that of any city in the kingdom, and of introducing the unrivalled telescope fire escape - the invention of Mr. Clayton, a citizen of Dublin - which is now universally employed, and has been the means of saving thousands of valuable lives. The destroyed premises referred to were rebuilt by the Port and Docks Board and incorporated with their premises. In this street are situated also the publishing and printing departments of the *Irish Times *newspaper, formerly occupied by the eminent firm of silk mercers and manufacturers, Messrs. Fry. The modest exterior of these premises gives little idea of the great space occupied and utilised in the production of the journal.

In the open space leading to O’Connell bridge [Moved in 1929 to Lower O’Connell Street. KF], formerly Carlisle Bridge, stands a statue, in white marble, bearing the legend “O’Brien.” The figure represents William Smith O’Brien, one of the ‘48 patriots known as the “Young Ireland Party,” in contra-distinction of that of O’Connell, called the “Old Ireland” Party. The latter deprecated all attempts at redress of Ireland’s grievances by force of arms. O’Brien’s party, on the contrary, despairing of amelioration by legislative enactments determined to take the field and establish some separate form of government. The result was, that in September, 1848, O’Brien was sentenced to death for high treason, a sentence afterwards commuted to transportation for life. He, with most of his fellow-conspirators, were afterwards granted a free pardon.

O’Connell Bridge and Sackville Street

oconnell1.jpg (58514 bytes)O’Connell Bridge is now reached. It contains, as will be observed, two roadways and three footpaths, and from this circumstance its width, in proportion to its length, is unusual. The views* *from this bridge are very interesting. Westward are the line of quays and the Four Courts, and towards the east the Custom House, and glimpses of the shipping. This latter view, formerly one of the finest in the city, has been completely spoiled by the railway bridge, in itself a hideous, ungainly structure, presenting a most unfinished appearance. In front stretches the entire expanse of the city’s pride, Sackville Street, with Nelson’s Pillar towering aloft in the middle of it, the portico of the Post Office on the left, and the corner of the Rotunda showing at the northern end.

oconnell2.jpg (52807 bytes)Close at hand rises the O’Connell Monument, the superb tribute of the nation to one of her greatest men. It was designed by Foley, and finished after his death by Brock. The statue of O’Connell is of bronze, and is 12 feet high, the limestone pedestal on which it stands being 28 feet high. The numerous figures round the drum .are represented as listening to Hibernia, the central figure, who tramples her broken fetters under foot, and holds aloft the Act of Emancipation. Perhaps the finest portion of this truly magnificent creation of a great sculptor are the four colossal winged figures at the corners of the base, representing Patriotism, Fidelity, Eloquence, and Courage. A statue, in white marble, next demands attention. It is erected to the memory of Sir John Gray, who, during his life-time, conducted the *Freeman’s Journal. *Sir John was a man of great ability, a prominent politician and member of Parliament, representing for many years the city of Kilkenny. During his career he was engaged in almost every movement intended to benefit his country. As a member of the Dublin Corporation he was invaluable. His labours in connection with the water supply to the city would alone entitle him to a nation’s gratitude. His son, Edmund Dwyer Gray, conducted the *Freeman’s Journal *with extraordinary energy until his death in 1887. He was M.P. for the Stephen’s Green Division of Dublin, and advocated the national cause persistently in Parliament, as well as in his journal. Previous to his death, a limited liability company had been formed, of which Mr. Gray was chairman and managing director. His interest in the concern was purchased at a large sum. The company now carry on the newspaper, as well as the *Evening Telegraph *a half-penny paper.

nelsonpillar1.jpg (59575 bytes)The Nelson Column towers to a height of 120 feet and forms a magnificent centre-piece to Sackville-street - the drawback being the obstruction of the cross traffic at that point. Several propositions have been made for its removal to a site a few yards higher up the street, but so far have met with no response. A fire view may be obtained from the summit of the column on a clear day. The charge for permission to ascend is threepence. [Blown up twice in 1966, once by Republicans, the remaining stump by the Irish Army]

On the western side is the General Post Office - an elegant structure, with portico in front, supported by pillars of Ionic order, surmounted by figures of Mercury, Hibernia, and Fidelity. It was erected in 1815, at an expense of £50,000. [Destroyed by shells and resulting fire during the Easter Rising in 1916. Restored in 1924.] Numerous alterations and additions have been made recently to accommodate the increasing demands on the department. The Money Order, Telegraph, and Stamp Departments are situate at the corner of Prince’s-street, in which street is published the *Freeman’s Journal, *the leading Nationalist organ of Ireland. The Parcel Post Department is situate further down Prince’s-street, and is supplemented by an extensive establishment in Amiens Street. The Returned Letter Department, Accountant-General’s Office, and many other offices have been removed to houses on the east side of Upper Sackville-street, the original building being inadequate for the rapidly growing business of the postal service.

frmathew.jpg (58802 bytes)In the centre of Upper Sackville Street stands the statue of Father Mathew, the great temperance reformer, in the habit of the Capuchin order. It rests on a handsome pedestal of lime-stone; the figure is a striking one, and is the work of a Lady sculptor, Miss Mary Redmond. It is one of the latest additions to our city statuary.

 

 

The Rotunda

At the northern end of Sackville-street is the Rotunda, connected with the Lying-in-Hospital. This useful institution was established in 1745, by Dr. Bartholomew Moss, and was the first institution of its kind in the United Kingdom. Dr. Moss, pitying the sufferings of the poor, had for many years previously received women into his house in George’s-lane (now South Great George’s-street), and attended to them during the period of maternity. He soon found the calls upon his means more than he could sustain, and appealed to the charitable for help. Private subscription and public lottery (then tolerated by the State; enabled Dr. Moss to cause to be erected the Rotunda Lying-in-Hospital, with exhibition rooms and gardens attached. Dr. Moss was made governor of the institution, but died within two years after his appointment, it was said, heart-broken at the aspersions cast upon his character by persons who accused him of appropriating to his own use the subscribed moneys. The central and western portions of the building are used as the Hospital, and residences for medical attendants, nurses, and domestics. Within the last few years a new building has been added, supplied with the most up-to-date obstetric appliances. The ornate style of architecture adopted with its bright red bricks and glazed earthenware ornaments, is out of harmony with the older buildings, and produces an effect the reverse of pleasing. Its utility is, however, unquestioned. A chaplain is appointed to the institution, and Church of Ireland services are held in the main building. The portion of the building facing Sackville-street and Cavendish Row contains the Round Room - a splendid circular apartment with light gallery running round the walls; the Exhibition Room, the Pillar Room: and several smaller rooms, all suited for exhibitions, bazaars, concerts, balls, etc., the rents for which assist in defraying the expenses of the hospital. The gardens form an enjoyable promenade for the inhabitants of the surrounding houses, and are occasionally hired for open-air performances.

Ascending to the top of the Glasnevin tram car which, starting from the north side of Nelson’s Pillar, may be taken at the corner of the Rotunda, a good view may be obtained of the Rotunda and its gardens. A short distance up Rutland Square we pass the fine Gothic edifice known as Rutland Square Presbyterian Church, and a little further down a street to the right we catch a glimpse of George’s Church, the finest classical church in Dublin. It is of the Ionic order, with fluted columns in the portico, and a steeple, which is one of the most beautiful examples of its kind in existence. The peal of bells is said to be the most musical in Ireland, eclipsing even the celebrated bells of Shandon. We next meet Berkeley Road R. C. Church and the Mater Misericordiae Hospital, one of the noblest institutions of its kind in this, or perhaps, in any other country. It is supported mainly by voluntary contributions.

Botanic Gardens.

Immediately before reaching the terminus of the tramcar at Glasnevin Village are the Royal Botanic Gardens, which are free to visitors, and are open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on week-days, and from 2 p.m. till sunset on Sundays. [Don’t rely on these opening times, they’re nearly 100 years out of date. KF.] The grounds are very beautiful, and contain a number of conservatories and large glass houses. Chief of these is the enormous Palm House occupying the top of the hill, and containing splendid specimens of the bamboo and other canes, and a fine collection of tree ferns.

Glasnevin Village, close at hand is a place with quite a celebrated history, some of its former residents being Tickell, Addison, Swift, Sheridan, Steele, and the poet Parnell.

Prospect Cemetery.

oconnell3.jpg (53929 bytes)Leaving the Botanic Gardens, a 15 minutes’ walk takes us to Glasnevin (Prospect Cemetery), a magnificent city of the dead, the final bourne of the majority of Dublin people. The most conspicuous object in it is the O’Connell Monument, a round tower 170 feet high, rising over the vault in which is laid the body of the Liberator. Admission can be gained to the crypt containing his coffin, and the tower may also be ascended. Besides O’Connell, many celebrated Irishmen sleep their long sleep in this cemetery, including John Philpot Curran, Tom Steele, Hogan, the sculptor, William Smith O’Brien, and Charles Stewart Parnell. The grave of the last-named is near the mortuary chapel. It would be idle, in the presence of such a wealth of statuary, to here select any individual monument for special mention. The beautiful piece of sculpture, however, erected to the memory of Barry Sullivan, the Irish tragedian, is worth inspection. He is represented in the character of “Hamlet.” The likeness is admirable, and the pose of the figure classic and characteristic of the great actor. After leaving the cemetery, a short walk towards the city brings us to a point iron which we may take the electric car to the Phoenix Park, passing *en route *Phibsborough R. C. Church (on the right), Richmond Lunatic Asylum (left), the Cattle Market (left), and the Abattoir (right).

Phoenix Park.

phoenix1.jpg (29960 bytes)The Phoenix Park, the beauties of which it would take pages to describe, or weeks to thoroughly explore, is situate on the north bank of the Liffey, on the extreme west of the city. Its boundary wall is seven miles in circumference, and it contains 1,760 acres, all but 400** **being open to the public. There are seven entrances with gates and lodges. The real name of the Part is derived from two Irish words, Fion-Uisge (pronounced Finn-ishga), meaning clear water, and referring to a spa for which the Park was famous. The incorrect name is perpetuated by the Phoenix Column, which stands on the main road about a mile and a half from the entrance. The Park was originally the deer park of Charles II., having fallen into his Lands on the suppression of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, to whom it had belonged. By the tourist, whose time is necessarily short, it is best explored by the aid of an outside car, and the following route will be found the most convenient and interesting. Entering by the North Circular Road gate, which we have reached on the tram-car, the Constabulary Barracks are seen a short distance to the right. Leaving the car, with instructions to the driver to wait at the Gough Statue, enter the People’s Gardens on the left, and crossing the valley between the two lakes ascend the high ground beyond. Here will be found a magnificent expanse of well-trimmed sward, with beautifully laid-out parterres of flowers. Across the road the Wellington testimonial is seen a large obelisk, utterly devoid of beauty, save for the bronzes on the pedestal, and hence known to the citizens as the overgrown milestone. Having examined this monument, a return can be made and the car rejoined, at Foley’s beautiful lordgough.jpg (59018 bytes)equestrian statue of Lord Gough, “the conqueror of the Punjaub.” A finer statue than this is not presented anywhere else in the world. It sets the seal on Foley’s genius as a sculptor. [Blown up on July 23 1957. KF] From this the drive along the main road may be taken, the driver being given instructions to drive by Mountjoy Barracks to Knockmaroon gate. Or the way he passes the scene of the assassination of Lord Frederick Cavendish and Under-Secretary Burke lay the Invincibles in 1882. Almost opposite to this on the right is the front of the Viceregal Lodge, leading to which, parallel to the road, there was formerly the famous avenue of elms. These magnificent trees, which had been planted more than a hundred years, were blown down almost to the, last one by the great hurricane of February, 1903. To the left of the road, opposite the Viceregal Lodge, is the great flat plain known as the Fifteen Acres, why, it is hard to say, as it contains many times fifteen. It is used as a review ground for the troops of the garrison. A short distance further on the road is the Phoenix Monument, wellington.jpg (95566 bytes)already referred to, and consisting of a Corinthian column crowned by the mythical bird in the midst of the flames. On the right is the entrance to the Viceregal Lodge [Now Aras an Uachtaran, home of the Irish President. KF.], and on the left the gates of the Chief Secretary’s Lodge, and the Under-Secretary’s Lodge, respectively. Some distance further up, the second turn to the left leads past the Mountjoy Barracks for the Ordnance Surrey, passing through spacious hawthorn groves, interspersed with towering forest trees, and the next turn to the right brings us to Knockmaroon gate.

Leaving by one gate, the road to Lucan and the Strawberry Beds by the river bank is seen, and a glimpse obtainable of the Observatory Tower in Lord Iveagh’s grounds. Re-entering the Park by the other gate, on the right, the road descends steeply to a lake in the midst of a furze glen, the wildest part of the Park. From the high bank on the left, overhanging this lake, there is a beautiful view of the river valley with rolling uplands beyond, and the purple slopes of the Dublin Mountain’s in the distance. Continuing, the Hibernian Military School [now closed. KF. ]is soon passed on the left, the road now trending upwards in a serpentine course called the Corkscrew Hill, until it reaches the Magazine Fort, pretty views of the river on the right being again afforded. A steep descent is next encountered, followed by a curved road rising towards the Wellington Monument, which is passed in due course, and the Gough Statue again reached. If time does not allow for the circular drive just described, the tourist may gain on foot a good idea of the extent and variety of the Park by visiting the People’s Gardens, the Gough Statue, and walking up the main road as far as the scene of the Cavendish and Burke murders.

Zoological Gardens

A visit to the Zoological Gardens, which are only a few minutes’ distance from the Gough Statue, will repay the time spent. They are beautifully situated, and possess a fine collection of animals, being specially celebrated for their lions. These Gardens are, in fact, renowned for lion-breeding, many of the lions seen in captivity in other gardens being native of Dublin. The best time to visit the Zoo is at three o’clock, when the animals are fed.

The return journey from the Park in this excursion is to be made via the north line of quays, to reach which* *the main road eastward from the Gough Statue must be taken, leading to the principal Park entrance in Parkgate Street, contiguous to which we find tramcars to take us back to O’Connell Bridge, at a charge of One Penny. From our seat on top we may notice on the southern side of the river a handsome building - the terminus of the Great Southern and Western Railway [Called officially Hueston Station, many older Dubs still know it as Kingsbridge. KF.]; and on the same side, facing the river, a row of buildings principally occupied by Guinness, Son, and Co., the great brewers. The Royal Barracks is on the north side, directly opposite. This Barracks is capable of accommodating two regiments of foot and one of horse. The enclosure in front is used for the purpose of exercising the troops. [Now part of the National Museum of Ireland. KF] On the south side of the river, we next notice the Public Baths and Wash Houses, remarkable as being formerly the residence of Lord Moira, at one time governor of India. Here Lady Moira held a state second only to that of royalty - the passport needed to her court being that of talent or genius. Poets, painters, and men of letters graced the *saloon *of Lady Moira; and were more welcome than mere nobility. The building has been used for various purposes since vacated by the Moira family, until finally it reached its present no doubt useful, but less noble purpose. [In 1905 it was the Mendicity Institute. It was demolished in 1960. KF]

Further on we find St. Paul’s Roman Catholic Church, a handsome edifice, ornamented by a belfry in which are hung a peal of bells remarkable for beauty of tone. The Four Courts cannot escape notice a splendid building, with an immense dome-shaped lantern springing from the centre elevation. Here the Law Courts are held; but as this is a mere passing glance we shall again revert to it. A christchurch1.jpg (59832 bytes)glimpse of Christ Church Cathedral is next obtained immediately on passing the Four Courts; its elevated position - on the south side of the river - making it a conspicuous object. Grattan Bridge, an ornamental iron structure is erected on the site of Essex Bridge. The abutments and arches of the old bridge were round to be strong enough to bear the additions, which are of iron. The bridge is level and a great improvement on the former one, which was unnecessarily steep; but the design is not in harmony with the surroundings. Looking across this bridge, the roadway appears blocked by a building, with dome-shaped roof - the City Hall, formerly the Royal Exchange. Wellington Bridge (popularly known as the Metal Bridge) next catches the eye - a light, one-arch structure of iron, erected in 1816 by Messrs. Mallet ironworkers of Dublin; it was considered at the time a triumph of engineering skill. The bridge was erected by private subscriptions, and permission was given to levy a toll of one half-penny for each passenger crossing; this custom, to the disgrace of Dublin, still exists. [It’s now free. KF] Arriving at O’Connell Bridge, it may be desirable to engage a vehicle. Cabs and outside cars are numerous in the vicinity, and, as already noticed, the fare is low enough - Sixpence for one person; One Shilling for two or more to any part of the city. [It is now a complaint of the citizenry that fares are extortionate. KF] **

Second Day**

The following places may be visited without much fatigue, and will be found a pleasing variety. From Amiens-street (Great Northern Terminus), or from Westland Row Station, tickets may be taken for Kingstown [Dun Laoghaire. KF] at following rates: Return Fares, Amiens-street to Kingstown - First class, 1s. 5d.; second, 1s.; third, 81 d. Return Fares, Westland Row to Kingstown - First class, is. 2d.; second, 10d.; third, 7d. Trains run almost every quarter hour, those departing from Amiens-street at 34 minutes past each hour, and from Westland Row at 45 minutes past each hour, being express trains, stopping only at one station (Blackrock) on their journey between Westland Row and Kingstown. The corresponding return quick trains leave Kingstown at 20 minutes past each hour. Kingstown is a seaside resort of considerable importance, about seven miles from Dublin, with a population of 25,000. Baths (hot and cold) are numerous; those who prefer the open sea will have no difficulty in finding spots favourable for a dip, Sandycove (1d. tram) being a magnificent bathing-place.

kingstown1.jpg (59964 bytes)The town contains some fine buildings, the Town Hall, the Railway Station, the Marine Hotel, one of the best appointed establishments of its kind in Ireland. Close to the Marine Hotel is one of the most picturesque Pavilions in the United Kingdom. It is splendidly appointed and surrounded by well laid out grounds. Good class performances can be always relied on.

The harbour is a fine one, enclosing an area of 250 acres, with a depth of water varying from 15 to 27 feet. The East Pier is 3,500 feet in length, the West, 4,950. The harbour was commenced in 1816, and finished in 1859, at a cost of about £900,000. The Carlisle Pier, projecting from the centre of the Harbour, and connected with the Dublin and Kingstown Railway, by a line of rails, was built specially for the Mail service, mails and passengers being despatched daily - 8.15 a. m., and 8.15 p.m., by one or other of the splendid fleet of steamers - the Ulster, Leinster, Connaught, and Munster - owned by the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company. The incoming Mails arrive at about 5.30 a.m. and 5 p.m. [Now used solely by the Stena Line. KF.] Facing the Pier stands an obelisk erected to commemorate the departure of George IV. in 1821. The East Pier is the grand promenade of Kingstown. It contains a covered band stand, in which military hands perform at regular intervals during the summer season. The Pier is terminated by a light-house, and the view from the end is magnificent, as are indeed, all the views of Dublin Bay, from whatsoever point they are taken. On the pier is a monument to Captain Boyd, of H.M.S. “Ajax,” (who lost his life while endeavouring to rescue the crew of the brig, “Neptune,” in 1861. A handsome monument was also erected to his memory in St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, where the body was interred.

Kingstown may also be reached by the electric tram service, and in fine weather, when the outside of the tram is available, it is a most enjoyable trip. The cars can be boarded at any point along the following route: Nelson’s Pillar, Sackville-street [O’Connell Street], Westmoreland-street, Grafton-street, Nassau-street, Merrion-square. Lower Mount-street, Haddington-road. Fare: From Haddington-road to Kingstown, 3d.; Dalkey, 4d. Return tickets are not issued. One penny is charged from any point between Nelson’s Pillar and Haddington-road. By this route we pass a delightful stretch of scenery - Ballsbridge, with its Town Hall, Royal Dublin Society’s extensive grounds and buildings, in which are held the** **great annual Horse Show as well as several cattle and other shows during the, year; then the Masonic Orphan Children’s School. In the distance the Dublin Mountains are visible. At Merron, we get a glimpse of the sea, with Howth in the distance.

Booterstown is next reached, and then Blackrock, which is a busy, bright seaside town, and possesses a prettily laid out Public Park, where military and other bands “discourse sweet music” at stated times during the summer and autumn. It possesses Roman Catholic and Protestant places of worship, a town hall, bank buildings, and baths. Monkstown comes next; it possesses a Protestant Church of somewhat peculiar build, and numbers of very stylish private residences, many of them with extensive and well laid out ornamental grounds.

Having left the car at the corner of the Royal Marine Road, we visit the harbour, East Pier, view* *the Town Hall, etc., and otherwise enjoy ourselves as fancy dictates. We then return to the point at which we left the car, and resume our journey to

Dalkey

Two miles from Kingstown. Trains run from Kingstown Railway Stadon, and trams from George’s-street; but, if not too fatiguing, the walk will be more enjoyable. The villages of Sandycove and Glasthule will be passed. A Roman Catholic Church of fine proportions and elegant design is in the latter village

Bullock Castle - overlooking a small harbour, a short distance from Dalkey - is said to have been the stronghold of a noted freebooter, who exacted tolls from vessels passing up or down the channel.

Dalkey was at one time a place of considerable importance, and up to the end of the 17th century claimed to be a port. It possessed seven castles, of which two are still to be seen, the second, after restoration, being now used as the Town Hall. These old castellated dwellings are believed by competent authorities to be the oldest and finest of their kind in the British Islands. Dalkey is most picturesquely situated; but this fact can hardly be ascertained from a walk through the town itself, a state of affairs which is due to the rapacity of private individuals. The whole foreshore was originally public property, but it was “grabbed” for building purposes, and the rights of way that formerly existed have long since disappeared. From Sorrento, however, where the public park is situated, there are magnificent sea and mountain views. Dalkey Island lies opposite the town. It was once a Danish fort, and contains the ruins of an ancient church. It was famous about the end of the 18th century as the seat of a mimic kingdom, and every year a king was elected with much festivity and mock pomp. It was the custom for several of the Dublin wits to assemble on this occasion, and it is recorded that at the last coronation more than 20,000 persons were present.

dalkey1.jpg (67003 bytes)Killiney Hill is one of the finest view points in the Kingdom. The road, which runs inland from the Railway Station, leads direct to the main entrance, The views from, the summit are well worth the labour of climbing. Dublin Bay, Killiney Bay, Dalkey Island, Howth, Kingstown and its harbour, Bray Head, the town of Bray, the Velvet Strand, the Wicklow Mountains, all form a panorama of rare beauty. It is said that on a clear day, by aid of a field or marine glass, Holyhead can be distinctly seen from this point of observation.

In 1887 (the Jubilee year of Her late Majesty’s Accession to the throne), Killiney Hill was thrown open as a public park. The ceremony of opening was performed on June 30th of that year, by the late Prince Albert Victor, who, in company with his brother, Prince George of Wales, had visited Dublin in honour of the jubilee.

A Char-a-Banc runs almost every hour between Dalkey Station and Victoria Park, Killiney Hill. Fares - 3d. single, and return 5d.[Alas, this service is no more. Take a bus. KF]

If time permits, however, the best way to reach the summit is to follow the Vico-road, which runs along the shore. It gradually ascends, and from almost every point, as one traverses the upward slope, are views which are unsurpassed in the United Kingdom. In the foreground the cliffs fall away from our feet to the sandy shore of a crescent bay. Far out in the bright waters rises the bold outline of Howth, and in clear weather may be distinctly traced the pointed summits of the distant Mourne Mountains. In the background stand a lovely range of mountains stretching, from where a deep cut in the skyline marks the Scalp; away to the left past the two shapely Sugar Loafs, to the precipitous seaward side of Bray Head. The whole forms a panorama of surpassing loveliness.

Visitors can dine comfortably at the Hotel, Dalkey, or by returning to town by rail or tram, Dublin can be reached in from 25 to 60 minutes.

.