Harold's Grange, the Three Rock, Two Rock and Tibradden Mountains.

CHAPTER XII

Harold’s Grange, the Three Rock, Two Rock and Tibradden Mountains.

Rathfarnham has been selected as the starting point for this excursion on account of the facility with which it can be reached by tram from nearly all parts of the city and suburbs, but Dundrum is a more direct route, and, for those residing near the railway, will be found more convenient. Those who make Dundrum their starting point should walk thence to Tiknock cross-roads, from which they should follow the route described further on in this chapter.

Having reached Rathfarnham, we turn to the left at the end of the village street, passing in succession the new Catholic church and the dilapidated locality known as “The Ponds,” where a large square-framed gateway stood until last year, bearing the inscription “Nutgrove School, Established 1802,” and leading into a pretty avenue shaded by a row of tall trees. The schoolhouse was in former times the dower house of Rathfarnham Castle, and its grounds are now utilised as a flower farm. In the old playground is a tree, on the trunk of which are carved the names and initials of many of the former scholars.

The road turning to the right at the Ponds, passes the extensive buildings of the Loreto Convent, the central portion of which was a residence of Mr. Grierson, King’s printer at the time of the Union. Nearly opposite is the row of dwellings called St. Patrick’s Cottages, recently erected by the district council, and forming with the new terrace behind them on the Whitechurch road, a considerable addition to the old village of Willbrook. Beyond this point the road is enclosed between walls, and presently ascends past the grounds of “Hermitage” to a fantastic embattled structure known as “The Fortification,” which, owing to its mantle of ivy, has acquired an appearance of age beyond its years. It probably dates from about the middle of the 18th century, as during that period it was the fashion for the wealthy gentry to have in their grounds some form of ruin, cromlech or other fabricated antiquity.

On the opposite side of the road, and enclosed by woods, is “The Priory,” for some years the residence of John Philpot Curran.

Beyond “The Fortification” occasional glimpses of the Bay are obtained through the trees on the left; a long stretch of road then follows, enclosed by walls, until after passing the entrance to the course where the Rathfarnham races were formerly held, the road sweeps to the right, affording the first view of the open country, and of the Two Rock and Three Rock Mountains from their bases to their summits.

We next reach the locality known as Harold’s Grange, deriving its name from a grange or farm house, probably fortified, of the Harolds, a powerful Anglo-Norman sept who were territorial proprietors in this neighbourhood for hundreds of years, and whose dominion is also commemorated in the more familiar designation of Harold’s Cross.

On the banks of the stream, a little beyond the cross-roads, and almost concealed by lofty trees, is the ruin of a small square turret or watch-tower, which, probably belonged to the original grange, and was connected with it by a bridge across the stream. It is entered by a pointed arched door, the cut keystone over which appears to be more recent than the rest of the structure. On the opposite bank, vestiges of an ancient building may be distinguished in the masonry of some cottages and outhouses, which would point to the probability that they have been incorporated with the remains of the ancestral home of the Harolds.

At this point we turn to the left along a road which gradually ascends for about three-quarters of a mile to Tiknock crossroads, from which on a clear day, an extensive view is obtained to the north and east. We here turn to the right along the Tiknock road, with heather and gorse-clad heights on either side. A few hundred yards further on, a cottage will be seen in the fields to the right, behind which is the once famous Grumley’s Well, where a patron was formerly held, and where even now an occasional pilgrim comes to pay his devotions. In front of the well are two willow trees, and over it a stunted thorn bush, with a few rags tied to its branches in accordance with the time-honoured practice. In the covering stonework is a recess, which probably at one time held the pediment of a cross, while in front are engraved two chalices, and on top a rude representation of a cross with the letters I.H.S. A remarkable head of water originates at this well which forms the source of a pretty stream flowing through the fields and crossing the road from Harold’s Grange.

As we continue our journey, the view extends eastward, and we presently obtain a view of Kingstown and its harbour, after which we cross a spur of the Three Rock Mountain by a steep ascent, where the road is very rough and loose in consequence of being torn up by the torrents in rainy weather. To the right will be seen a precipitous rocky eminence rising over the group of cottages known as Stackstown, to which there is a pathway trough the fields from the road.

Just as this steep part of the road is passed, and we again reach level ground, a lane, entered by an iron gate, will be seen on the left - follow this lane past the farmhouse, and pass trough the latched wooden gate at the end beside the rifle club house, after which bear well to the left - in a south-easterly direction - over rocks, gorse, and heather, resplendent with colour in blossoming time, until at length the tops of the rocks are seen peeping above the sky-line in front. A wire fence will then be observed, with a conspicuous stile for the convenience of visitors.

An alternative but scarcely so easy a route as the above, is to proceed to the inn which occupies so conspicuous a position half a smile south-east of the Tiknock cross-roads, taking the road at the back of the house and almost immediately diverging by a rough but well defined track on the right. Keep to this track until it reaches the quarries, where go straight ahead and bear well to the left until a low stone wall or mearing is seen, on the left side of which a grassy track leads straight up to the stile near the summit.

The three groups of rocks which give name to this mountain are nearly in a line, running south-east by east, and are only partially visible from the Dublin plain. The following scientific description of them, by Mr. G. V. Du Noyer, an eminent archaeologist and painter, is taken from a memoir published in 1835 by the Geological Society of Ireland, to explain their map of the Dublin district: - “The remarkable-looking bosses of granite on the summits of the Three Rock and Two Rock Mountains are not perched blocks, but the solid granite weathering in places; and this weathering is solely the result of long-continued atmospheric action - rain, frost, and snow. The rock being evenly jointed in vertical as well as horizontal planes, has weathered on the line of separation; and some of the rough cubical masses thus formed have resisted the action of the weather more completely than the others. In this way are left those great table-like masses, having their edges moulded along the horizontal joints.”

A much more fanciful description is that of Gabriel Beranger, who wrote about 1780: - “This mountain has on its summit three huge heaps of rock, piled one on another, and seen at some miles distance, from which the mountain takes its name. I take them to be altars on which sacrifices were offered. The plate [a sketch made by Beranger of the group of rocks visible from Dublin] represents one of the most entire; it rises about 18 feet above the ground, and is accessible by an easy ascent. It has several basins cut in the rock on its top, of the size of the inside of a man’s hat; but one more remarkable than the rest, being of an oval form, and measures 2 feet 6 inches in length by 2 feet broad, the depth in the centre, 9 inches. Another of these, but less entire, is at some distance. I have copied every stone as they are fixed, and the regularity which is observed in piling them convinces me that they are the work of man, as they could not grow in that position. The sea is seen, though more than 6 miles off. The extensive summit of this mountain, the parched ground and its solitude, make it the most awful spot I had ever seen.”

Beranger probably considered that the “basins,” of which he took such particular notice, were intended for the reception of the blood from the victims sacrificed.

Sir William and Lady Wilde, in their *Memoir of Beranger *(p.170), notwithstanding the fact that they had the advantage of Du Noyer’s opinion, strangely enough, assent to Beranger’s preposterous surmise as to the human origin of these piles of rocks, and describe them in an introductory reference to the foregoing account as “a Druid monument on the Three-rock Mountain.”

It will be observed that Beranger has not a word to say in regard to the beauty of the prospect from the top, having apparently been impressed only by feelings of awe for his surroundings. This attitude is quite usual with old writers, by whom mountains were usually regarded as objects of horror, while in still earlier times the inhabitants of the plains so peopled them with fabulous monsters and malevolent spirits, that they were regarded as extremely undesirable places of resort. It is only in quite recent times that a perception of their beauty or grandeur has been evolved.

These rocks have been worn by the action of the weather into ~o many nooks and crannies that it is possible to find shelter from the wind, no matter from what point it blows, and numerous initials and other inscriptions, contributed from time to time by visitors, appear all over the more accessible portions. The view from this commanding height, 1,479 feet over sea-level, extends over a vast tract of mountain, sea, and plain, comprising, to the north, the blue waters of Dublin Bay, with Clontarf and Howth, the Naul or Man-of-War hills, and the Mourne Mountains; eastward, Kingstown, Dalkey, and Killiney, and then in succession the fertile vale of Shanganagh, Carrickgollogan, the Scalp, Bray Head, the Sugar Loaves, and the slopes of Prince William’s Seat. In clear weather Holyhead and the Welsh mountains may frequently be discerned, Snowdon and the Llanberis Pass being usually the most conspicuous, but occasionally the elongated outline of Cader Idris may be observed some distance to the right.

From the Three Rocks a long and easy slope of about a mile conducts us to the top of the Two Rock Mountain, 1,763 feet high, the rocks from which the mountain derives its name, lying about half a mile to the south-east, at an elevation of 1,699 feet, and consequently not being visible from the Dublin side. On the summit is a carn of loose stones, called “Fairy Castle” on the Ordnance Survey maps, which assumes varying shapes from year to year according to the vagaries of the summer excursionists who find their way up here. The view, although more extended towards the west and south-west, is, on the whole, less pleasing and varied than that from the Three Rocks.

The walk from here to Tibradden along the ridge between the two mountains should not be attempted except in thoroughly dry weather, as the ground is inclined to be swampy, and after rain is often impassable. If it be decided to visit Tibradden, keep along a mearing running westward from the summit of the Two Rock Mountain for a considerable distance, and when it ends, bear to the right towards a plantation of firs and larches; and from this, take a straight course through what will be found to be a very rough and difficult piece of country, to the top of Tibradden, now immediately in front. The ground to be traversed immediately before reaching the rocks on the summit is very boggy, and in a pool which forms here in wet weather small lizards or newts are occasionally to be seen. The narrow defile of Glendoo appears from this point darker than it really is, deeply shadowed by its woods, with the brown slopes of Cruagh Mountain rising on the opposite side, while to the left will be seen the open valley of Glencullen and the road extending away over the hill beyond Glencullen Bridge.

On the southern side of one of the rocks on top of Tibradden is a rude carving of a cross and a human face, which, judging roughly by the growth of moss upon it, would appear to be at least 100 years old. Adjoining are the remains of an ancient carn and beehive burial place, in which, when opened many years ago, was found an urn now preserved in the National Museum. Tigh-Bradden means Bradden’s house or resting-place, and this name, which was no doubt in the first instance applied to the carn, in all probability commemorates the name of the old chieftain buried there, to whose memory the mountain is now an imperishable monument.

It should be mentioned that the summit of Tibradden is exactly in line with Rathmines Road, which, when viewed from here through a glass, presents with its trams and other vehicles a curious appearance of exaggerated width owing to the foreshortening. The descent into Glendoo may be made either directly to the road underneath - through the heather and forest, or by making one’s way to a low wall northward of the summit, and thence descending by a rough, steep track joining the road just at the entrance to the wood. The direct descent from the top is rather dangerous, as the heather is high, and the slopes of the mountain abound in deep holes where one might easily suffer serious injury. The alternative route is in parts nearly as bad, so that any person coming here would do well to be provided with a stout stick, and to proceed very cautiously.

Should the Three Rock Mountain only be ascended, the return journey might with advantage be made down the eastern slope, towards the straggling village of Barnacullia, situated about half way up the mountain, from which point either Dundrum or Rathfarnham can readily be reached.

The total distance to be walked in this excursion - viz., from Rathfarnham to the Three Rock Mountain, Two Rock Mountain, Tibradden and back to Rathfarnham is 12 miles; if Tibradden is omitted and the descent made from the Two Rock Mountain to Tiknock and back to Rathfarnham, the distance would be 10 miles, while the excursion to and from the Three Rock Mountain only, would entail a journey of 9 miles. These distances will vary according to the directness of the tracks taken, and on this account must be regarded as only approximate.

Persons starting from Dundrum should take the turn to the right at the end of the village and keep straight ahead until Ticknock cross-roads are reached, following thence the route described.

The “Memoir of Gabriel Beranger,” by Sir William Wilde, is published in the *Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland *for 1876-8.

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