Ranelagh, Dundrum, Enniskerry, the Scalp.

CHAPTER XVI

Ranelagh and Cullenswood, Dundrum, The Scalp and Enniskerry.

Leaving the city by Charlemont Bridge, we enter the the district of Ranelagh, a name of modern origin, dating from the establishment of the Ranelagh Gardens towards the close of the 18th century. On crossing the Canal Bridge, the houses on the right-hand side will be seen to be much below tile level of the road, which was raised many years ago to ease the gradient to the bridge, when trams were first introduced into this neighbourhood. In the addition to the name-plate on the corner house, bearing the modern name of the road, there will be observed, on close inspection, a tablet below it, exhibiting the almost obliterated inscription: - “Upper Charlemont Street” - a name which does not appear to have ever been generally adopted.

Rocque’s map shows that in the 18th century a large country house named Willbrook stood on the ground now occupied by the Convent of St. Joseph at Ranelagh. It was, for some time the residence of the Bishop of Derry, and becoming vacant about the year 1770, was taken by an English speculator, and convened by him into a place of public entertainment called “The Ranelagh Gardens” in imitation of the London Gardens of that name, of which they purported to be a copy. These gardens were a favourite resort for some years, largely attended by the rank and fashion from the city, for whom bands, fireworks, and other attractions were provided, and from them in 1785, Crosbie made his famous balloon ascents. The Gardens, however, enjoyed but an evanescent popularity, and, after a run of less than 20 years, closed altogether; the place was then acquired by the Carmelites, who convened the buildings into the Convent of St. Joseph; but the name of Ranelagh has ever since clung to the locality, whichp prior to that had been comprised in the district bearing the historic designation of Cullenswood.

It would seem that the village of Ranelagh derived its Origin as well as its name from these gardens, as no trace of a village or even a house, with the exception of Willbrook, is shown on Rocque’s map, the date of which is about 1753. There were, however, at the time of the Gardens, probably a few residences about the triangle of land where the tram turns westward to enter Charleston Road, as well as a terrace in Sallymount Avenue, either new or in course of erection.

Cullenswood is memorable as the scene of the massacre by the mountain septs, on Easter Monday, 1209, of the Bristolian settlers who had assembled here for holiday sports, the chief item of which was to have been a great hurling match between two parties of the citizens.

All this neighbourhood was then wild country, covered with forest, brushwood, and heather, affording excellent facilities for an ambuscade.

Stanyhurst, who wrote in *1584, *gives the following quaint account of this sanguinary episode of the early settlement of Dublin: - “The citizens having over great affiance [confidence] in the multitude of the people, and so consequently retchless [reckless] in heeding the mountain enemie that lurched under their noses, were wont to roam and royle in clusters, sometimes three or four miles from towne. The Irish enemie, espying that the citizens were accustomed to fetch such odd vagaries on holydays, and having an inckling withal by means of some claterfert [traitor] or other that a company of them would range abroad on Monday in the Easter week, towards the woode of Cullen, they lay in a state very well appointed, and layde in sundry places for their coming. The citizens rather minding the pleasure they should presently enjoy than forecasting the hurt that might ensue, flockt unarmed from the citie to the woode. where being intercepted by their lying in ambush, were to the number of 500, misererably slayne. The citizens, deeming that unlucky tyme to be a cross or dysmal day, gave it the appellation of Black Monday. The citie being soon after, peopled by a fresh supply of Bristolians, to dare the Irish enemie, agreed to bancket yearly in that place. For the mayor and the sheriffs, with the citizens, repayre to the Woode of Cullen, in which place the Mayor bestoweth a costly dinner within a moate or roundell, and both the sheriffes within another, where they are so well guarded by the youth of the citie, as the mountain enemie dareth not attempt to snatch so much as a pastye crust from thence.”

For hundreds of years afterwards the colonists kept up the tradition of the tragedy by marching out on the anniversary, thereafter called Black Monday, to Cullenswood, fully accoutred and armed, headed by a black standard, and formally challenging the mountain tribes to combat. In 1316 the O’Tooles attempted a similar surprise of the settlers, who, however, sallied forth in numbers from the city, with their black standard, and routed their assailants, pursuing them for miles into the mountains. It has been generally stated by modern writers that the actual scene of the massacre of 1209 is the locality known as “The Bloody Fields,” now almost entirely built over, though some hold that this name originated with the Battle of Rathmines in 1649, when considerable fighting took place in the neighbourhood.

In ancient times the district south of Dublin was known as Cualann, and the wood which covered a considerable portion of it was known as the wood of Cualann, or Cullen, while the most conspicuous glen in it was called Glencullen. By the colonists the district appears to have been called Nova Colonia, Boscus de Colonia and Colon (Dalton’s and Ball’s *Histories), *the latter name being probably an Anglicised form of the native designation.

Just where the railway crosses Charleston Road, there formerly stood jutting out elbow-wise into the road, a curious old house, the removal of which was necessitated by the exigencies of the traffic when the electric tram service Was established. In this old country house - for it was in the country in those days - the celebrated John Wesley used to stay when visiting Dublin in the latter half of the 18th century He had many distinguished friends in the Irish capital, and was a welcome guest at the houses of many of the leaders of society. The district about Ranelagh was then quite rural; the Wellington orchard, still remembered by many, covered the ground now occupied by Charleston Road, and a few scattered residences, standing in their own grounds, were probably the only indications of suburbs that Wesley could see from the windows of this quaint old house.

One of the oldest avenues in this neighbourhood is Sallymount, which was laid out about 1770, and was, for many years afterwards, only about a furlong in length, and closed at the end by an iron gate. Between this avenue and Ranelagh, in the early part of last century, was a fine whitethorn hedge, opposite to which was Toole’s and Mackay’s (afterwards Toole’s) Nursery, while the fields now occupied by Sandford Terrace were noted for their blackberries. In Sallymount Avenue resided for a time the well known Rev. Dionysius Lardner, no less renowned for the pursuit of scientific research than for that of the fair sex, and whose doings occasioned much gossip in the neighbourhood. It was he who proved satisfactorily, for the time at least, by calculations based on the consumption of coal, that no vessel propelled by steam could ever cross the Atlantic. He was the guardian of the distinguished dramatist and author, Dion Boucicault.

Down to about 1830, snipe, plover, and other wild fowl were shot in the winter time in The Bloody Fields” - where now are the M’Geough Home and Palmerston Park; even Mountpleasant was then quite rural, and the newly enclosed square, in which plantations had just been started, was surrounded by a rubble wall and ditch.

Immediately beyond Annavilla, and on the same side, is an avenue known as “Major’s Lane,” deriving its name from the notorious Major Sirr, whose house stood there within living memory, and traditions of whose doings lingered until recently in the locality. Some of the older inhabitants who have spoken to his contemporaries, state that he was described as a big, corpulent man, most unpopular with every class on account of his spying and interfering in matters which should have been delegated to his subordinates. It may be here mentioned that Major Sirr’s title was not a military one, but an abbreviated form of “Town Major,” a corporate office long since abolished. While he lived in Cullenswood he used to walk to and from his office in town every day.

The name of Sandford, attaching to the district immediately beyond Cullenswood, originated with Sandford Church, called after Lord Mountsandford, while the name of the adjoining country house, “Merton,” would appear to have been suggested as the correlative of Sandford by the title of “Sandford and Merton.”

Turning to the right from the tram route by the Milltown road, we presently enter the village of Milltown, situated almost on the very bed of the Dodder, and formerly subject to frequent inundations from that river. This rather prettily situated village was at one time much resorted to by the citizens for recreation; coaches and “noddies” used to ply thither from town, and the wants of the visitors were provided for by an old-fashioned hostelry which may still be seen in a ruinous condition at the far side of the old, and probably the oldest, bridge over the Dodder. The most conspicuous feature in modern Milltown is the great stone viaduct of nine arches by which the Dublin and South-eastern Railway is carried across the Dodder valley.

Crossing by either the old or new bridge, we presently reach Windy Harbour, a scattered village, the inhabitants of which in former times were extensively engaged in the silk industry; and a short distance further, to the left of the road is the Dundrum Criminal Lunatic Asylum, enclosed by formidable walls and occupying a considerable area.

About half a mile beyond this point we enter the village of Dundrum, formerly much frequented by invalids to enjoy tile salubrity of its air, and to drink the milk of the mountain goats. Brewer, in his *Beauties of Ireland *(1826), quaintly writes: -

“Dundrum is in a sheltered declivity, sheltered from the harsh winds. The village is the fashionable resort of invalids for the purpose of drinking goats’ whey. At early hours of the morning numerous jaunting cars convey from the city large parties of visitors to partake of that sanative beverage amidst the reviving scenery over which the animals have browzed. In this rural hamlet are many romantic cottages, whose white fronts and low proportions would appear to harmonise with the wishes of those who frequent the place, by holding forth the soothing invitations of retirement and peace.”

In 1816, and for some years afterwards, while this neighbourhood was in vogue among the citizens, communication between Dundrum and the city was carried on by a service of coaches, on which the fares were Is. 3d.(6p) inside and 10d. (4p) outside, for the single journey. These somewhat high charges materially assisted in maintaining the air of exclusiveness so dearly prized by the fashionable invalids and hypochondriacs who patronised the place.

The following interesting advertisement appears in the *Freeman’s Journal *of 27th February, 1813:

“MEADOW BROOK BOARDING HOUSE, DUNDRUM.

The second whey season having commenced, Ladies and Gentlemen are respectfully informed that there are a few Vacancies in the House; the accommodation will be found agreeable, and terms very much reduced – respectable Society in the House.”

Not far from Dundrum is Goatstown, which claimed a special excellence for its breed of goats, and where still may be seen some of the houses which accommodated the visitors who resorted thither to drink the “sanative beverage.”

Near the southern end of the village of Dundrum, within private grounds, and almost entirely concealed by trees from the eye of the wayfarer, is the ancient castle of Dundrum, believed to have been erected by one of the Fitzwilliam family, who came into possession of these lands towards the close of the 13th century. The ruin is kept in excellent order, and is almost covered with ivy.

From Dundrum the road rises almost continuously to Sandyford, where it branches right and left, either way leading to Stepaside, and taking the right hand turn as being the most direct, the country presently becomes more open, and we come into view of the Three Rock Mountain in front, with the straggling village of Barnacullia scattered irregularly along its Slopes about half way up the mountain, while farther off and to the left will be seen Carrickgollogan and the hills of Dalkey and Killiney. After about a mile the ruin of Kilgobbin Church will be seen on the left, standing on a sharply defined eminence, which is probably the remains or site of an ancient rath, and in the adjoining laneway is a fine granite cross, about ten feet high, of very ancient date. A short distance across the fields to the north-east of the church, is Kilgobbin Castle, a tall, narrow structure entirely devoid of bawn or outworks, which might be described as a fortified dwellinghouse rather than a castle. It originally belonged to the Walsh family, from whom it passed by forfeiture or otherwise, in the reign of Charles I. into possession of Sir Adam Loftus, of Rathfarnham.

Returning to the main road, on the opposite side will be seen a steep by-road leading up the side of the mountain to Ballyedmunduff, and adjoining is the picturesque entrance to the demesne of Fern Hill, through which the public are admitted as a short cut to Barnacullia. The road hence falls slightly to Stepaside, a village which acquired a temporary notoriety in the last century as the scene of a miniature battle during the Fenian rising in 1866. High over the village to the right, the dark foliage of the pine woods lends a softening effect to the brown mountainside, and in front will be seen the rocky heights of Killegar, overhanging the Scalp, and partly covered by the dense wood of Ballybetagh.

A little over a mile from Stepaside we reach the high ground at the head of the Glenamuck road, from which may be seen the Bay as well as the district intervening between us and the coast, and shortly afterwards we enter the small village of ‘Kilternan, consisting of a row of neat slated cottages. Here, in a sequestered position are the ivied ruins of an ancient church, surrounded by thorn and elder trees, and presenting evidences of great antiquity. A castle also stood in the village in the 17th century, but no trace of it now survives, and even its site has been forgotten. Down to about sixty years ago there were paper mills and a cotton factory in Kiltiernan affording considerable employment in the neighbourhood.

About half a mile west of Kiltiernan, on the wild mountainside, surrounded by fern and heather, is one of the largest cromlechs in Ireland, commonly known as “The Giant’s Grave,” the table stone of which is 22 feet long by 13½ feet wide, and is estimated to weigh about 40 tons. The supporters, judging from their irregular positions, would appear to have suffered some considerable disturbance.

Passing out of the village we enter upon a highly picturesque portion of the road shaded on both sides by trees, approaching what was known as “The Novice’s Hill” in the early days of cycling, when that pastime was deemed suitable only for athletes or acrobats. In the springtime this place is seen to its best advantage, the young pale foliage of the deciduous trees contrasting finely with the dark blue-green of the pines, while scattered here and there through the woods are open patches all ablaze with the blossoms of the ever-flowering furze.

A sharp descent in the road conducts us to the picturesque defile known as The Scalp, formed on the west by the rocky heights of Killegar, and on the east by the wooded hill of Barnaslingan. This place is so well known, and has been so frequently described, that there is no necessity to enter into any detailed account of it here; it should be mentioned, however, that the rocky side is well worthy of ascent, which should be performed, not by climbing straight up from below a somewhat trying task - but by continuing along the road towards Enniskerry, until a perpendicular wall of rock is passed on the right, when a pathway will be observed ascending through the furze and heather to a patch of soft green sward at the top. From this point of vantage will be seen away to the north, Dublin Bay with the South Wall, the Pigeonhouse, the white sands of the South Bull, Howth, and the Bailey, while close at hand is the rugged little defile of Glenamuck, like a miniature Scalp; to the left of that and nearer is Ballybetagh Wood, and then in succession are the Three Rocks, Two Rocks, the mountains forming the southern outposts of Glencullen valley, Douce, Powerscourt, the Sugar Loaves, Bray Head and town, and to the left of these the rough and rocky hump of Carrickgollogan.

At the bottom of the valley below are the remains of the old road, now grass-grown, with some portions of the enclosing walls still standing, although this route was superseded by the modern one over seventy years ago. The whole defile is much more imposing when viewed from this old roadway, and an illustration of it in *The Dublin Penny Journal *was evidently taken from this standpoint.

Immediately before reaching Enniskerry, the road branches right and left, either way leading into the village. The left-hand road, being the older one, is much steeper than the other, and was the scene of many a serious accident in the old cycling days. Between the two roads is a dark wooded gorge, where a small monastery stood in ancient times, the site of which is still remembered in tradition. Viewed from the heights above it, the little village of Enniskerry presents a very striking appearance, embosomed in its pine woods and situated in a well-sheltered hollow, with the Great Sugar Loaf rising majestically over it.

From Enniskerry the reader must be left to his own choice as to the route to be pursued homeward, a favourite one being the road to Bray, and thence by the Bray and Stillorgan road to town.

Distances from G.P.O.: - Dundrum, 4¼ miles; Stepaside, 7 miles; The Scalp, 10½ miles; Enniskerry, 12 miles; Bray, 15½ miles; G.P.O., 28 miles.

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