Baldoyle, Portmarnock, Malahide and St. Doolagh's

CHAPTER XXVII

Fingal - Baldoyle, Portmarnock, Malahide and St. Doolagh’s

The north of the County Dublin, though not possessing the same attractions in point of scenery as the mountainous district in the southern portion, yet contains many objects of deep historic interest scattered trough the classic plains of Fingal. While it lacks the breezy expanses of golden gorse, the heather-clad uplands and wooded defiles of the south, it presents what is more acceptable to the practical eye of the agriculturist, a pleasantly undulating country, fertile and cultivated, and watered by numerous rivulets and streams. Towards the extreme northern portion the undulations become more marked, forming a range of gently sloping hills, anciently Slieve Breagh, extending westwards from the coast into the County Meath. According to *The Annals of the Four Masters, *the district of Fingal was bounded on the south by the Tolka, and on the north by the river Delvin, now pan of the county boundary, while south westward it extended as far as Knock Maeldoid, a small hill west of Finglas.

In the 9th century a colony of Ostmen entered Dublin and established themselves there, but being ultimately driven out of it by the inhabitants, they settled in the tract lying northwards along the coast, which thenceforth became known as *Fine-Gall, *or the territory of the Galls or strangers. ‘Their descendants up to a recent period were known as Fingallians, and even at the present day bear traces of an origin different from their neighbours, besides being credited with the possession of distinctive characteristics and temperament.

We start from town by the Howth Road, and turn to the left by the road crossing the railway at Baldoyle Station, Presently entering Baldoyle village, now chiefly known in connection with its horse races, but in former years a bathing resort of some note. At one period this locality possessed an unenviable notoriety, as the resort of smugglers, highwaymen, and other undesirables, but those days are now forgotten, and the character of the inhabitants, as well as the whole aspect of the village, has altered since that time. Some of the cottages stand on the very shore, and are often washed by the surf during the prevalence of easterly winds, the effects of which, are, however, to some extent, moderated by the adjoining peninsula of Portmarnock.

Baldoyle *(Baile-Dubhgoill) *means the town of Dubhgall or Doyle, a personal name signi~ing black Gall or foreigner – i.e., Dane or Danar, as distinguished from Norwegians who first settled in Ireland A.D. 842 *(Irish Names of Places, *Vol. I., p.350, and Archdall’s *Monasticon Hibernicum, *edited by Cardinal Moran; Vol.11., p.21, note).

In 1369 a parliament was held in the Church of the Grange of the Priory of All Saints at Baldoyle by Sir William de Windsor, Lord Lieutenant, for the purpose of levying subsidies. As this proceeding became the subject of popular remonstrance, a commission of inquiry was granted by Edward III in 1373 to investigate the action of the Lord Lieutenant on this occasion, and it was found thereat “that the said Lord Lieutenant summoned a parliament at Baldoyle where there were no buildings except one small chapel; and that he chose that place for the purpose of compelling the members of said parliament, through want of lodging and other inconveniences, to comply with his demand; and that consequently the said parliament granted a subsidy of 2,000 marks, of which 500 would be levied in the County of Meath, whereupon the commons of said county sent Richard Bray into England to the King.”

The ivied ruins of this historic edifice, known as Grange Abbey, may be seen in the grounds of Grange House, a mile and a quarter due west of Baldoyle village. They are situated on a slightly elevated mound enclosed by trees, quite close to and visible from the road. The building measures internally 45 feet 6 inches in length, 18 feet in width, and the side walls are about 8 feet high, from which it will be seen that the complaints as to the accommodation for the assembly convened there were amply justified *(see *Archdall’s Monasticon Hibernicum [Moran’s], Vol.11., p.25).

In 1478 on the representation of the Prior of All Saints, and Lord of the town of Baldoyle, that the inhabitants were much distressed by reason of the inordinate taxes levied upon them by the King’s Admirals and their deputies, it was enacted by Parliament that the Prior should thenceforth be Admiral of Baldoyle and of all other lands belonging to the Priory in Ireland.

A short distance beyond the racecourse, the Mayne river flows out on the shore, which is here fringed by a dreary waste of salt marshes, the resort of numerous wild fowl in winter. We next come in view of the old mill of Portmarnock, a well-known landmark, unroofed and much dilapidated by the storm of 1903. A mill stood here for hundreds of years past, references to it being found in records so far back as 1663, when it formed portion of the property of the Plunkett family. At the far side of the bridge, adjoining Portmarnock House, is a small patch of land called “The Cross,” on which a termon cross formerly stood to mark certain monastic bounds. Turning to the right across Portmarnock bridge, we pass a number of pretty cottages, after which will be observed, to the right of the road, the ancient church of the locality, erected in the 12th or 13th century, and used up to about 1615, since when it has been in ruins.

Between the ruin and the road lies St. Marnock’s Well, formerly open and approached by a flight of sixteen stone Steps leading down to it. On its northern side grew an old willow tree long since cut down, which, according to tradition, Was wont to bend over the waters on the approach of a storm, and on this account was regarded with feelings akin to veneration by the fishing folk of the neighbourhood. Beside the well Was a pillar stone, now broken to fragments, some of which have been preserved, having on their angles Ogham inscriptions, and also bearing some unknown symbols, which were never deciphered or explained. It is much to be regretted that portions of this interesting relic were incorporated in the masonry of the well, when it was enclosed about 1855, and a pump erected over it, as the inscription was well defined and undoubtedly genuine.

Resuming our journey, a laneway will be seen on the left, nearly opposite the church, bearing the picturesque designation of “Blackberry Lane,” and after passing the rise in the road, the shore again comes into view at the northern extremity of the Velvet Strand. Just under the point where the Martello tower stands, a small quay for landing fish was constructed about 100 years ago, when there was a much larger population along this coast than at the present time. The place was then known as Tobermaclaney, meaning Maclaney’s well, and a depression in the ground near the tower marks the site of the well, the waters of which, having been disturbed by drainage operations, now spring up from the sands under the road, within a few yards of the sea waves.

The Velvet Strand, seen to great advantage from this point, is a most beautiful sight on a bright sunny day, with its wide, smooth expanse of sand, and its fringe of white surf, in striking contrast to the deep blue colour of the water. Lambay looks quite close from here, the little row of Coastguards’ cottages near the harbour being easily discerned without the aid of a glass. Howth town and harbour are conspicuously in view, as also the rugged reach of precipitous cliffs on the northern side of Ireland’s Eye, while to the right of Howth will be seen in the distance the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains.

After passing Tobermaclaney, the road skirts the edge of a range of low cliffs, almost within reach of the surf from the waves thundering against the dark and rocky shore. In front, at the opposite side of the creek, will be observed the Lunatic Asylum, picturesquely situated on rising ground on the Portrane Peninsula, the whole aspect of which has been altered by the building of this extensive establishment. We next pass the coastguard station, and in about half a mile further, Robswall Castle, a square edifice standing on a rock beside the shore, with a dwellinghouse built up against it. It consists of three storeys, and was strongly fortified, having been designed to command the passage of the estuary of Malahide. The ceiling of the ground storey is vaulted, and a circular staircase leads thence to the first floor, which has been entirely modernised, while off the main room is a small “garderobe.” A flight of stone steps ascends to the battlements, from which a little watch tower similar to those on Dalkey and Bullock Castles, is reached. The name appears in an Inquisition in the reign of Henry VIII as Roebuck’s Wall, and is given in its present form in the notes of the Down Survey, where it is described as a thatched castle belonging to the Barnewalls of Turvey.

According to tradition this castle was founded in the 15th century by one of the de Berminghams with the object stated above, but it does not appear to have ever sustained attack or siege. We next pass on our right, the Malahide golf links - a green, undulating stretch of sand dunes, interspersed with clumps of bracken and rushes, and as Malahide is approached, we come into view of the estuary of the Broadmeadow Water - locally known by the euphoniou5 title of Muldowney Creek - on the opposite shore of which will be seen the solitary farmhouse of Corballis.

Near Malahide will be seen, adjoining the road, a most picturesque dwellinghouse partly constructed out of a martello tower.

Malahide is a decayed watering-place which attained an ephemeral popularity about sixty years ago consequent Upon the construction of the Dublin and Drogheda Railway, and although there are many good houses and terraces in the vicinity, it has, in recent years, shown little signs of revival except as a golfing resort. Two hundred years ago it was a favourite drive for the Dublin folk, and the eccentric John Dunton in *The Dublin Scuffle *(1699), says:- “Sometimes I would for my diversion ride out a few miles either to Santry, Swords or Malahide, a place as eminent as Billingsgate for people going to eat oysters there.”

A picture of Malahide Castle appears on the maps of the Down Survey, and in the notes is the following description of the town:- “Mallahide contains the town of Mallahide; there is a good stone house therein, with orchards and gardens and many ash trees, with other out-houses in good repair; there are also many thatched houses and cabbins by the seaside or bay, where fishermen dwelleth, and a mill that goeth by ebb tides.”

Malahide Castle was founded in the reign of Henry II by Richard Talbot, who had received a grant of the adjoining lands, and was an ancestor of the present proprietor. The exterior of the building exhibits little traces of its ancient character; the old loopholes have been superseded by modern windows, the once formidable outworks have long since disappeared, and a grassy hollow is all that now remains of the medieval castle moat.

Adjoining the Castle are the venerable remains of “The Abbey,” which consisted of a nave and chancel running due east and west, and which must have been one of the finest and largest churches in the whole district of Fingal. At the south-eastern corner of the chancel is a pointed arch door, leading to a two-storied building, probably originally intended either as a vestry or a residence for the monks, but which for centuries past, has been used as the burial place of the lords of the manor. In the centre of the nave is a monument to the Honorable Maud Plunkett, who was maid, wife and widow in one day, her husband, son of the Baron of Galtrim, having been slain on the day of his marriage in a predatory raid in the neighbourhood. This tragic incident forms the subject of Gerald Griffin’s ballad, “The Bridal of Malahide.”

One of the pleasantest walks in this neighbourhood is to the top of Carrick or Malahide hill, which, although of inconsiderable elevation, affords extensive views over land and sea, from the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains to the more distant ranges of Carlingford and Mourne.

To reach this hill, take the road starting from the hotel, up a slight incline - at the end of this road a narrow Pathway between high hedges turns to the left, and after passing through the fields, leads out upon the top. From this point the northern side of Howth and the bold profile of Ireland’s Eye stand prominently in view; and between the observer and the city, which may be distinguished in the distance, is a rich wooded country of hill and dale interspersed with villages, cottages and country seats. By continuing the pathway down the southern side of the hill, either the coast road or the inland road to Portmarnock can be reached.

If the return to town is made from Malahide, we cross the railway by the bridge at the station, whence the line runs straight across the creek and sands for a couple of miles to Donabate. We now enter upon the main Malahide road, well sheltered for a considerable distance by the dense woods of the Castle, and, counting from the railway bridge, we take the fourth turn to the right at the nearly vanished village of Feltrim, leading up by a gradual ascent to Feltrirn hill, an eminence which, surmounted by its ruined windmill, forms a conspicuous object in the prettily diversified country around it.

The bricks of which the windmill is built appear to be of excellent quality, and what remains of the woodwork is still in good preservation. The view from the hill comprises the ancient district of Fingal, the expanse of the Bay, and the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains beyond it.

Malahide is quite concealed from view by the dense woods of the Castle, but Swords and its ivy-clad ruins are easily distinguishable inland. Beyond Malahide creek, in the distance, will be seen the gently sloping eminence on which stand the massive ruins of Baldongan Castle, and in line with Swords is Garristown Hill, surmounted by its square ruin.

Feltrim Hill still retains traces of the wild character which must have distinguished it when it originally acquired its name of Faildruim, or the Hill of the Wolves, and the numerous tickets of furze and brushwood scattered over it would even now afford excellent cover for these animals. In early times it was covered by dense forest and scrub, and was doubtless a spot dreaded and avoided alike by natives and settlers.

The ancient and distinguished family of Fagan were long the landed proprietors in this neighbourhood, and their ancestral residence stood on the slopes of the hill. When the Earl of Desmond was a State prisoner during the reign of Queen Elizabeth he was consigned to the custody of Christopher Fagan of Feltrim, who, magnanimously refusing to place him under duress, allowed him complete liberty on parole. This privilege was, however, abused by the Earl, who availed himself of an opportunity to escape back to his own territory in Munster. In some accounts of this incident, however, it is stated that Fagan allowed the Earl to escape.

Returning to the main Malahide road at the point where we left it, and continuing our journey homeward, in about half a mile we pass through the little village of Kinsaley, with its pretty diminutive church, the predecessor of Which stands a picturesque ivied ruin, a short distance to the left along the road to Portmarnock. The name Kinsaley, meaning “the head of the sea,” would indicate that at some period the sea or the tidal waters of the little river flowed in as far as this point, though not within recent times, the adjoining lands having been long since embanked and reclaimed. This stream, which takes its origin near Cloghran, passes beside the village, and closely following the course of the road flows into the sea at Portmarnock bridge. That it often transgressed beyond its legitimate bounds is indicated by the name Watery Lane - the old name of the road from Kinsaley to Portmarnock - which, perhaps, originated at the time when the sea flowed in here.

Some short distance beyond this, on the right of the road, is the ancient Church of St. Doolagh’s, believed to have been erected in the 12th century, and possessing many characteristics of the early Saxon churches. It has a massive stone roof of such strength and solidity that even seven centuries of exposure to the elements have made little change in its condition. Flights of stone steps lead to the several apartments, rising one above the other, and from the upper of these a ladder leads out upon the battlements. ‘The whole building is enclosed by an ancient brick wall, outside which is a kind of raised pathway, probably marking the former level of the adjoining road.

The original walls of St. Doolagh’s are about three feet thick, and of immense strength, as will be seen at the windows, most of which are now glazed, though one had to be built up owing to its exposed position. At the top of the second flight of stairs is a small recess, said to have been the penitential bed of the saint. Close to the church, but outside the enclosing wall, is a holy well contained within a circular stone basin, over which rises an octagonal building of graceful style and proportions. About the middle of the 17th century, Patrick Fagan, of Feltrim, decorated this building, and had the walls inside covered with paintings - that on the ceiling representing the descent of the Holy Ghost upon the Apostles, while at the sides were shown St. Patrick, St. Bridget, and St. Columkille, with flie patron saint (Duilech) in a hermit’s garb. On the wall was a marble slab bearing the following inscription, commemorative of the curative effects of the water of the well: -

“Piscinae Solymis clarae decus efferat alter,

“Et medicas populus jactet Hebraeus aquas,

“Grata Deo patrium celebrat Fingallia fontem

“Doulachi precibus munera nacta pus;

“Morbos ille fligat promptus viresque reponit

“Aegris, et causas mille salutis habet;

“Scilicet aequus agit medus Doulachus in undis,

“Angelus Ut fontem, sic movet ille suum;

O fons noster amor! Si te negleximus ohm,

“Mox erit ut** **nomen sit super astra tuum.”

---

Translation (from Lynch’s Lzje of St. Patrick)

“Bethsaida’s sacred pool let others tell,

“With healing virtues how her waters swell;

“An equal glory shall Fingalia claim,

“Nor be less grateful for her blessed stream.

“Thy prayers Dolachus mounted up to Heaven,

“Thence to the well the mighty power is given

“To drive the fiery fever far away,

“Strength to replace and rescue from decay,

“In every malady to life a stay,

“The cherub, wondrous moves his waters there,

“The saint behold! who stirs the fountain here.

“Hail lovely fount, if long unsung thy name,

“It hence shall rise above the starry frame.”

According to Lynch’s *Life of St Patrick, *these interesting memorials of devotion were destroyed by Sir Richard Bulkeley, presumably in a fit of iconoclastic zeal, when returning to Dublin with a party of troopers after the Battle of the Boyne.

Sir Richard, who was a hunchback, and somewhat weak minded, subsequently fell under the influence of a set of religious impostors, who, besides pretending to the gift of prophecy, undertook to change him to his proper shape and proportions. So deluded was he by their wiles that he had decided to sell his estates and divide the proceeds among them, but his death, which occurred in 1710, prevented him from carrying out his foolish designs.

A patron was formerly held at St. Doolagh’s, but becoming a scene of rioting and dissipation like many others, was suppressed by the clergy in the last century.

Leaving St. Doolagh’s we pass through Balgriffin, in which there is nothing of interest to notice, and continuing our journey along the high road, we pass in succession the villages of Coolock and Artane, the latter of which is memorable as the scene of the murder of Archbishop Alen in 1533 by the adherents of Silken Thomas. The unfortunate ecclesiastic, apprehensive of the resentment of the Geraldine, endeavoured to escape from Dublin by sea, but his vessel having been driven ashore near Clontarf by contrary winds, the Archbishop sought refuge in the house of his friend, Hollywood of Artane. Here he was discovered, dragged from his bed, and, notwithstanding his entreaties for mercy, brutally murdered in front of the house in which he had taken shelter. This old house or castle was taken down in 1825, and Artane House erected on its site. The scene of this unhallowed deed, now covered by the buildings of the Industrial School, is traditionally recorded as having been for generations afterwards enclosed by a fence, overgrown by rank weeds, and shunned by the people in the locality.

We next pass the small village of Donnycarney, and presently observe on the right the model Greek temple designed by Sir William Chambers, and erected by Lord Charlemont in his grounds.

A mile and a half from Artane we reach the tram road at Marino Crescent, Clontarf, where the excursionist may be safely left to finish the remainder of his journey.

Distances from G. P. O. for the round:- Raheny, 4¼, Baldoyle, 7; Portmarnock Bridge, 8¾, Malahide 12; Feltrim Hill, 14¾; Balgriffin, 17; Coolock, 18¾; back to G.P.O., 22¾* *miles.

The following authorities have been consulted in the preparation of this chapter:- An article on Fingal district, by William C. Stubbs, M.A., in the *Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries *for 1897; Dalton’s *History of the County Dublin; *Archdall’s *Monasticon Hibernicum *(Moran’s).

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