Fingal - Rush, Skerries, Lusk and Baldongan Castle

CHAPTER XXX

Fingal - Rush, Skerries, Lusk and Baldongan Castle

In this, as in the last excursion, we proceed by Drumcondra, continuing along the main road for a distance of about 3½ miles beyond Swords, when a finger-post will be seen at a place called Coldwinters, indicating the road to Skerries. Here we turn to the right, and in less than half a mile, again to the right, the road rising gradually until at length we obtain a view of Rogerstown creek with its adjacent marshy lands sloping down to the water. On the opposite side may be observed Ballisk and Donabate, to the seaward Lambay Island, and in the distance to the southwards, the Dublin mountains, dimly visible through the city smoke. After passing under a railway bridge, the road descends to sea level, running along the very shore of the creek, and although this track bears obvious evidences of periodic invasion by the sea, it is generally passable for cycles the whole way to where it leaves the shore and rises on to an embankment. Close to this point is Rogerstown pier, the modern representative of the ancient port of Rogershaven. We now enter the outskirts of Rush, a town extending for a distance of over two miles along the shore, and shortly afterwards pass the ruins of an old windmill conspicuously situated on a mound to the left of the road. Rush presents the appearance of considerable prosperity, the houses, even of the poorest inhabitants being remarkable for their cleanliness and neatness. At the eastern end of the town is a small harbour, which is somewhat difficult of access, and available only for small craft, besides being greatly exposed to heavy swells of the sea when the wind blows hard from the north-east. The pier was built here in the reign of James the Second.

Rush is mentioned by Hollinshed as being one of the chief haven towns of Ireland, and in more recent times was celebrated for its fisheries, particularly of ling, which were caught and cured in great quantities by the inhabitants. Adjoining the town is Kenure Park, containing a fine mansion, formerly known as Rush House, now the residence of the Palmer family. In 1666 the manor of Kenure was granted to the Duke of Ormonde, passing subsequently to the Echlin family, who have since become impoverished, and are now represented by Sir Henry Echlin, residing in England; and from the Echlin family the estate was purchased by an ancestor of the present proprietors, The house, which is a spacious and handsome structure, contains some fine paintings as well as a rare collection of vases, and other relics from Pompeii.

The estate derives its name from the old church of Kenure, dedicated to St. Catherine, the ruins of which still remain, together with some old tombstones, one of them marking the grave of Baron Hamilton of Strabane, who died in 1668, and who married a daughter of Christopher Fagan, of Feltrim. Several of the parish priests of the 18th century are also buried there, as well as a celebrated smuggler, Jack Connor, nicknamed “Jack the Bachelor,” who, after a most adventurous career, died in 1772. Between the ruin and the mansion is St. Catherine’s holy well.

Continuing along the main street of Rush to where the finger-post indicates the road to Skerries, four miles distant, our route thither lies along a well kept road, with the sea in view for most of the way on the right. Just halfway, a road known as Featherbed Lane, leads on the right to the pretty little hamlet and harbour of Loughshinny, while a short distance northward is an old copper mine, which was worked until about 100 years ago. In the opposite direction from Loughshinny, where the lane crosses the railway, there was formerly Featherbed Lane Railway Station. On the coast, near Loughshinny, is a petrifying spring, mentioned in Rutty’s *National History of the County Dublin, *which deposits calcareous incrustations upon the rocks over which it flows. From Featherbed Lane the road falls the whole way to Skerries, a town which, during the last thirty years, has come greatly into vogue as a watering place, and has considerably extended in consequence of the increased demand for accommodation visitors. It cannot, however, be said to possess any very striking natural or artificial attractions. The most northerly portion of the town, containing the harbour and Coastguard Station, is known as Red Island, it having been at one time entirely surrounded by the sea, though now connected with the mainland by a narrow isthmus. Due east of Red Island are Colt Island and St. Patrick’s Island, neither of which is inhabited, the latter containing the remains of an ancient church belonging to a monastery established there at a remote period, and recorded in the Annals of Munster to have been burnt by the Danes in 797 A.D. The stones of this ruin, at the angles, the edges of the roof, and in the remains of the groined arches in the chancel, have become honeycombed like a sponge by centuries of exposure to the weather. Adjoining the ruin, to the southward, is the still quite discernible site of some buildings, doubtless those of the original monastery.

About four miles east-north-east of Skerries is the islet of Rockabill, which, with its lighthouse towering above the waves, forms a remarkable object in the view from all parts of the coast of Fingal, while its brilliant flashing red light renders it no less conspicuous in the night time. A little to the south-east of Skerries is Shenick’s Island, accessible from the mainland at low water.

About the year 1220 the situation of the monastery on St. Patrick’s Island having been found very inconvenient, the Archbishop of Dublin erected the parochial church on the mainland.

In March, 1675,* *the royal packet was wrecked on the rocks here on its voyage to Chester, when a number of passengers, including Lord Meath and his son, together with the captain and most of the crew, perished.

In 1755 the Irish Parliament granted £2,000 for the construction of a pier at Skerries, and in 1767 £1,500 more for the same purpose. It subsequently fell into decay, but was repaired, and extended by Hans Hamilton, an ancestor of the present Lord Holmpatrick.

The country around Skerries is prettily diversified, and the ruins of a few old windmills, situated on adjacent eminences, lend a somewhat picturesque effect. As we return from Red Island along the main street, we come to a turn on the right, past the Protestant church, where a finger-post shows the road to Dublin. To reach Baldongan we take this road, being careful, however, not to take the turn to the right from it immediately outside the town. The road is uphill most of the way to the ruins, which are conspicuously situated on the summit of a rising ground, about two miles from Skerries, commanding an extensive prospect of the surrounding country. The ruins now surviving consist of the eastern and western ends of what must originally have been an extensive castle and church, the materials of which were probably utilised to build the enclosing wall around the graveyard - still used as a burial ground. The most striking feature is the great tower of the church or abbey, 70 feet high and 22 feet square, entered by an arched doorway, leading to a flight of 53 steps to the battlements, on the eastern side of which is a two-arched bell-turret. The buildings originally formed a spacious quadrangular court, flanked by four square towers, and were erected on the site of an ancient dun or moat.

In the beginning of the 16th century this castle belonged to the de Berminghams, from whom it passed by marriage into possession of the Howth family, subsequently being held by the Barnewalls with their manor of Balrothery. In June, 1642 it was defended by the Confederates of the Pale against the Parliamentary forces, and according to a contemporary tract entitled *New Intelligence from Ireland, *dated 17th June, 1642, Colonel Trafford besieged it with cannon, and put all the garrison, about 200 in number, to the sword, while two priests who were among the defenders, were examined on the rack and afterwards deported to France.

The following more detailed accounts of the siege appear in another tract or bulletin, undated, but evidently issued within a few days of the other: -

(I) “The Lords of the Pale are besieged in Baldongan Castle by our forces, who sent to Dublin for Ordnance to batter it, which was sent them, guarded with 400 men, but what they have done is not yet knowne.”

“Sunday last was the day appointed for a set battle, which (it is said) was given, but what is done is not yet knowne; we hope to heare by the next post.”

(2) “Colonell Trafford went out from us with some 1,000 men to forage and light upon a part of the enemy, who betook themselves to Baldongan Castle, some 12 miles from us who besieged them. Two large pieces were sent to him which came there; ten shot two shots *[sic] *onely that night; and on the next day they beat down the Castle and put all to the sword which were about 200, none of any note in it, but two Priests that were Captaines to those Rebells, one of them was brought home, and was examined and put to the Racke, but confessed little; that day 26 Priests were shipped for France, which deserve better to be hanged.”

These interesting ruins are maintained in excellent order, and are easily accessible, as the field where they stand is entered by a stile from the road.

Leaving Baldongan, we turn to the left, descending the whole way to the main road, a mile distant, where we again turn to the left, reaching Lusk at a distance of 3½ miles from the ruins. Lusk is one of the oldest ecclesiastical settlements in Ireland, dating from early Celtic times, as evidenced by the ancient round tower incorporated in the steeple built by the Anglo-Normans in the 13th Century. The original Celtic community continued here up to the year 1180, when the establishment was taken possession of by the Anglo-Normans, and all the Celtic monks expelled, and replaced by nominees of John Comyn, Archbishop of Dublin.

Adjoining the church, on the western side, is the steeple, a massive square building, vaulted underneath, and flanked by four round towers, one of which, belonging to the ancient Celtic establishment, is readily distinguished from the others by its greater height. The three later ones were added by the Anglo-Normans when they built the steeple, after taking over possession of the Celtic abbey.

In 1847 the modern church replaced the ancient edifice, which had been in a ruinous condition for many years, the roof having been blown off by the great storm of January, 1839. In the aisle of the old church was preserved a hideous stone figure, traditionally reputed to be a stone idol, formerly worshipped by the Danes of the district. It consisted of a representation of a human head, without neck or body, attached to a pair of kneeling thighs and legs.

During the erection of the present edifice the workinen found the coffin-plate of the Most Rev. Dr. Patrick Russell, Catholic Archbishop of Dublin in the reign of James II. It bore the inscription - “Here underlieth ye body of Patrick Russell, Rom. Cathlick Ld. Arch. Bp. of Dublin and Primate of Ireland, son to James Russell, of Rush, who died in ye 63rd year of his age, on ye 14th of July, 1692, and in ye 9th year of his consecration.”

The most interesting memorial in connection with the church is, however, the costly and elaborate monument of Sir Christopher Barnewall, of Turvey, and of his wife who survived him and married Sir Lucas Dillon of Moymet, in the County Meath. This monument is constructed of different kinds of stone, most of the figures being sculptured in grey Italian marble while the lower part of the tomb is Kilkenny marble. The deceased knight is represented in a suit of armour, his head uncovered and his hands joined on his breast in a devotional attitude, and his feet resting on the body of a greyhound. His consort appears lying beside him with her hands crossed on her bosom, and her head reposing on an embroidered pillow. The sides are embellished with the arms of Barnewall and Dillon. On the eastern end of the tomb is the inscription - “This monument is made for the Right Worshipfull Sr. Christopher Barnewall, of Turvey, Knight, by the Right Worshipfull Sr. Luckas Dillon, of Moymet, Knight, and Dame Marion Sharl, his wife, who married herr three years after the deathe of the said Sr. Christopher, herr first and lovinge hoosbande who had issue four sonnes and fifteen dauchters by herr. Wish well to Dillon, 1589.” On the northern sides are names of the nineteen children, and at the western end - “Christopher Barnewall, Marion Sharl.”

Another interesting monument is a black marble tomb, bearing the effigy of a knight in armour, the visor open and sword across the left thigh, and the hands joined over the breast in an attitude of prayer. The inscription states that it is the monument of James Bermingham of Ballough, and his wife Eleanor Fitzwilliam, who died in 1637.”

Adjoining it is a tomb of Kilkenny marble, erected to the memory of Sir Robert Echlm, Baronet, of Rush, who died in 1757. It bears the lines, taken from two of Pope’s epitaphs:

“Here lies an honest man without pretence,

Blessed with plain reason and with common sense;

Calmly he looked on either life, and here

Saw nothing to regret or there to fear;

From Nature’s temperate feast rose satisfied,

Thanked Heaven that he had lived, and that - he died.”

Lusk was several times burnt during the earlier period of its history - viz., in 1069 by accident, in 1089 by a party of marauders from Munster, when 180 persons perished in the church, and in 1133 by a similar visitation. Two years later the town, abbey, and surrounding district of Fingal were ravaged and burnt by Donald MacMurrough O’Melaghlin, King of Meath, in revenge for the murder of his brother, Connor. The townsfolk, however, offered considerable resistance, and slew O’Melaghlin on the occasion.

In 1375 the officers of “the harbour of Lusk” were instructed by Government to prevent the unlicensed exportation of corn from that port, and also prevent any of the retinue of William de Windsor, Chief Governor, from leaving Ireland thence, under penalty of forfeiting their horses, baggage, &c. (Dalton’s *Histoiy). *As Lusk is nearly two miles from the sea, the harbour referred to is doubtless the old port of Rogershaven already alluded to.

In 1641, Luke Netterville and others caused proclamation to be made at the market place of Lusk, for the assembling of the Irish Confederation of the Pale at Swords.

Leaving Lusk, we reach the main road again at Coldwinters, two miles distant, and on entering Swords, take the second turn to the right, inquiring the way to Knocksedan, where there is a very remarkable flat-topped fort or rath from which the locality derives its name. Knocksedan means “the hill of the blast,” from its exposed position, it being fifty feet above the bed of the river and commanding a considerable view. As We approach this place we may observe, on the left, the extensive demesne and wooded glen of Brackenstown, variously known in former times as Bractenston, Brecknanstown, Breekneckston, and by Dean Swift as Brackdenstown. In the 16th century this estate was owned by the Burnell family; from them it passed to the Nugents, who, in the reign of James the First, sold it to one Bysse, whose son became Recorder of Dublin, and subsequently Chief Baron.

By a marriage with Chief Baron Bysse’s only daughter and heiress, the estate passed into the possession of the Molesdworths, who subsequently became the Viscounts Molesworth of Swords. The celebrated Drapier’s letters were addressed by Swift to Lord Molesworth at “Brackdenstown.” In the year 1711 a deputation of the Lower House of Convocation waited on the Lord Lieutenant to present him with an address. Lord Molesworth, who was present, made no attempt to conceal his aversion to the Convocation, which he suspected of sympathy with the Pretender, and muttered in their hearing, “Those that have turned the world upside down are come hither.” For this gross insult to the Convocation his name was struck off the list of the Privy Council.

On high ground at the opposite side of the road, and close to the cross roads, is the gaunt ruin of Brazeel House, the residence of Sir Richard Bolton, Lord Chancellor of Ireland, in the reign of Charles the First. He was a distinguished lawyer, and published the first editions of the *Irish Statutes, *as well as *The Justices of the Peace for Ireland. *In 1640 he was impeached in the House of Commons for having assisted the Earl of Strafford in the introduction of arbitrary government into Ireland. In 1661, however, all records of this transaction were voted to be expunged, “inasmuch as they seemed to be an entrenchment upon the honour, worth, and integrity of honourable persons, whose memory this House cannot, in justice, suffer to be sullied with the least stain of evil report.” (Dalton’s History).

“Edward Bolton, Esquire, of Brazille” is mentioned in the Acts of Attainder of 1689. Brazeel House was burnt early in the last century, on which occasion it is stated that a unique portrait of Sir Richard Bolton was destroyed.

In 1647 Owen Roe O’Neill and Sir Thomas Esmonde, in command of a force of Royalists, after defeating a Parliamentary force and capturing Castleknock, marched to Brazeel and encamped there that night.

The road past this place by Ballyboghil and Naul is the most direct road to Drogheda, and was the route by which many of the Jacobites retreated to Dublin after their defeat at the Boyne. On the night of the battle, the Duke of Berwick rallied 7,000 infantry at this spot, and sent word to King James (his father) who had preceded him to Dublin, to send him some cavalry to enable him to continue his retreat safely to the metropolis. The King accordingly sent nine troops of cavalry to march to the Duke’s relief, and the whole force shortly afterwards broke up their camp and marched away.

Turning to the left at the cross roads, and crossing the Ward river by Knocksedan bridge, a fine, well-kept road conducts us to Glasnevin, at a distance of 8 miles from Swords.

Distances from G.P.O. - Swords, 9 miles; Rush, 15; Rush Coastguard Station, 16; Skerries, 20; Baldongan Castle, 22½; Lusk, 25½; Swords, 30½; Knocksedan, 33; G. P.0. 41.

In the preparation of this chapter, information has been obtained from an article by the late Rev. Dr. Stokes on Lusk, &c., in the *Journal of the Royal Society of Antiquaries *for 1890.

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