Clontarf.

CHAPTER XV1.

Clontarf

The last highway from the north side of the city is that which leads by the seashore to Clontarf and Howth, a district with the cheerful distinction of the lowest death rate in Dublin. The road to Clontarf and Howth is very well known to Dubliners owing to the excellent tram service.

The name of Clontarf at once recalls the great battle on which Gray has founded his ode of the Fatal Sisters. It was fought on Good Friday the 23rd of April, 1014, and the Scandinavian power was finally broken by the great Irish King, Brian Boroimhe, who was killed by the Danish admiral, Broder, an apostate, it is said, from Christianity. The best authorities assert that this battle was fought about the mouth of the Tolka and near the northern outskirts of the city; but there was hard fighting about Marino, and he battle went on as far east as the site of Castle Avenue. Some vestiges of Tomar’s Wood remain, mentioned in accounts of the battle, especially at Marino and near Clontarf Castle, where Brian’s two-handed sword is still preserved.

Many names of places in Clontarf recall the battle, such as, Brian Boroimhe’s Well, in Castle Avenue; Boroimhe Lodge, facing the Bull Wall; Brian Boru Avenue; Turlough Terrace near Annesley Bridge, called after Brian’s grandson, who met his death here; Danesfield, Dollymount, where a Danish sword was dug up in 1830; Danesfort hear Castle Avenue; Cencora, Castle Avenue; Conquer Hill, the slope beside Crab Lake which is a pond in the field behind Boroimhe Lodge; Conquer Hill Cottage, Dollymount; Conquer Hill Road and Conquer Terrace; Kinkora, also at Dollymount, and Danespark.

Sitric was the Danish commander in the battle. It is said that there were many killed at the Danish “fishing-weir of Clontarf,” where Ballybough Bridge is now, and that many were drowned there. It has been calculated that the tide must have served at five minutes to six o’clock on the day of the battle.

Clontarf is supposed to have derived its name, “plain of the bull,” like the North and South Bulls, from the roaring of the sea. There used to be an oyster-bed on the bank called the Furlong. Clontarf has been in the city of Dublin since the Boundaries Act passed in 1900. It seems strange that a sequestered spot in the Green Lanes should be in the city while Ratlirnines Road and Pembroke Road are not. The Corporation have, however, done much for Clontarf, and will, no doubt, make this handsome suburb worthy of the city ownership. They are at present engaged in reclairning the foreshore from the Tolka mouth at Annesley Bridge to the Railway Bridge at Clontarf. However attractive the result may be the process is necessarily unpleasant.

[There is another Clontarf, named after this, on the harbour of Sydney, Australia. There are two* *places called Clontarf in the United States, one in Minnesota and one in Wisconsin; and there is, at third in Canada.]

Many names in Clontarf, which date from the early years of the nineteenth century, are worthy of attention. Tokay is called after the town in Hungary where the wine comes from. Rosetta recalls Egypt and Simla India. Warrenpoint, with its sphinx-guarded gate, is called from owners of property, and is near a point in the coast (once called Cockle Point) like Seapoint lower down. There was formerly a house in Clontarf called Cockle Hall. Winston Ville behind the Crescent and Blandford Lodge on the shore seem to intimate some connection with the Marlborough family. Sir Winston Churchill, who lived some time in Dublin, was father of the great Duke, and the name Winston has been used by the Churchills since one of them married a Lincolnshire Winston. Blandford is the second title of the Duke of Marlborough, but the name of the house may come from Blandford in Dorsetshire from which the title is derived.

The house called Grace Dieu seems to be named after the place north of Swords where the Canonesses of St. Augustine had their great Convent of Our Lady of the Nativity. This was the largest convent of nuns in the County of Dublin, famous for its great extent and large community. Vernon Avenue, Vernon Parade and Mount Vernon are called after the family so long proprietors of the district, but the last name reproduces that of Washington’s house in Virginia. Haddon Road, as has been said, is from the association of the Vernon family with Haddon in Derbyshire. But it is very unlikely that Dollymount takes its name from that Dorothy Vernon, the daughter of Sir George of Haddon, the King of the Peak, who married Sir John Manners. The name Dollymount, first applied to a house, was afterwards bestowed on a village or seaside resort which sprang up beside it.

Some other names of more recent origin are also interesting. In so Conservative a district we are not surprised to meet with Hughenden, called from Hughenden in Buckinghamshire, so long the residence of the Earl of Beaconsfield, who was also Viscount Hughenden. Mentana recalls the place in Italy where the troops of Napoleon III. defeated the Garibaldian invaders of the Papal States on the 3rd of November, 1867. A house in Marino Avenue (marked “Charter Row” on old maps) near the Howth Road end has been called Bleak House for some years past, thus adding another to the Dickens memorials about Dublin. It may be objected that Bleak House in the story is far inland at St. Albans in Hertfordshire. But it is known that the real Bleak House is on the coast, at Broadstairs, a favourite summer resort of the novelist. The name of Snugborough, off Vernon Avenue, is not taken from Dickens, but it is such a name as might occur in his works. He goes as near it as Dullborough.

The Howth Road leaves the shore at the Crescent and rejoins it beyond Raheny. At a little distance from the shore the Great Northern Railway Company opened a station a few years ago for &ontarf, a welcome recognition of the growing suburb. This spot was formerly called the Black Quarry. The Presbyterian Church on the sea road was built about twenty years ago. Beyond the Railway, Kingscourt House is passed. This old building was the Royal Charter School, erected in 1749. It was afterwards used as baths. Hollybrook Park and the newly-made Hollybrook Road represent an old name here, derived from the little stream which flows into the sea at Brookside, near Strandville Avenue. St. Lawrence Road” is from the surname of the Howth family, proprietors of Killester. The road forms part of the narrow strip of that parish and townland which stretches to the sea.

Castle Avenue, which was the central road of Clontarf Township, runs from the sea to the gate of Clontarf Castle, and beyond that, having the Castle demesne at left and those of Yew Park and Blackheath at right, to the Howth Road, which it meets at Furry Park, near Killester. In the demesne, to the north-west of the Castle, is St. Philip’s Well, called St. Dennis’s Well on the older Ordnance Map of 1837. The reason for the change is not evident.

The first castle built here was erected a few years after the Norman Invasion by Adam de Pheroe, a favourite of the famous Hugh de Lacy. The old Castle, becoming ruinous, was demolished in 1835 and the present erected on its site. The gate is adorned with the boar, the heraldic cognizance of the Vernons, and with the family motto, *Vernon semper viret. *Vernon always flourishes. Some works on heraldry give another reading to the motto, in a kind of punning variant *-Ver non semper viret. *Spring does not always flourish.

From Castle Avenue there are two entrances to the Green Lanes of Clontarf, so famous for pretty sylvan scenery. One is by Seafield Avenue, and the other by Verville, formerly Fairville, to Vernon Avenue. The first meets the sea a little beyond the entrance to the Bull Wall. At the end of its course is the fine old house of Seafield which gives name to the avenue. But at the beginning and quite close to the Castle, is Clontarf Protestant Church, whose spire is one of the most conspicuous objects in the view of Dublin Bay. Where the Church and Castle stand there once stood a Commandery of the Knights Templars, which was granted, upon the suppression of that Order, to the Order of Knights Hospitallers, called Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. This Order derived its name from St. John the Baptist, to whose honour its founders had built a Chapel at Jerusalem. The old patron of Clontarf in ancient Irish days was St. Comgall, whose feast day is the 10th of May. But since the Knights of St. John settled here, so many centuries ago, the parish has been dedicated to St. John the Baptist.

Passing on by the coast road a strange object meets the eye, a little distance out on the strand. This is a cylindrical wall which once enclosed the shaft of a lead mine. The mine was discovered in 1756 and worked for some time, but had to be abandoned owing to the invasions of the tide. Just beyond this but farther out to sea are the Clontarf Baths and Assembly Rooms. This is a favourite resort of Dublin bathers, being so near the city and convenient in every way. There is a Swimming club which holds an annual gala. The Secretary of the Baths Company is also Secretary of the Lifeboat Institution for Clontarf District. Near this is the ground of the Clontarf Tennis Club. The Cricket and Football Clubs have their ground in Castle Avenue. Yachting and golf have their allotted quarters farther on.

A square planted with trees in front of Strand House, a Convent and School of the Holy Faith, and the Catholic Parish Church of St. John the Baptist are passed before Vernon Avenue is reached. The church is over seventy years old. Vernon Avenue is the centre of the old fishing village of Clontarf and of the Green Lanes. A very large part of Clontarf, coast and inland, is in the townland of Greenlanes. Convent House in Vernon Avenue was, for some years before 1819, the Convent of the Dominican Nuns who came here from Channel Row (North Brunswick Street) and left this for Cabra. Castilla recalls a Spanish alliance of the Bradstreet family who have lived there so long.

The coast road at the foot of Vernon Avenue is still called Clontarf Sheds from sheds which once stood here for curing fish. Captain Perry’s Map of Dublin Bay and Harbour in 1728, marks “Herring Sheds” at this point. A little farther on, at Fortview and Fortview Avenue, names taken from the obsolete Pigeon House Fort on the South Wall opposite, the old houses are gracefully ornamented with ironwork. Fingal Avenue near this and Fingal Terrace, Howth Road, may be regarded as still another historic memorial.

In ancient Ireland the old name of this district, showing the Scandinavian origin of its inhabitants, is closely associated with the Battle of Clontarf, which took place within its bounds. There is an old Irish march, still well known, called *The Return from Fingal, *in commemoration of the victorious march of Brian’s Dalcassian army back to Clare. It is quite different from the better known *Brian Boroimhe’s March. *Beside Fingal Avenue is still another Belvidere, long the headquarters of the Clontarf Yacht and Boat Club. The annual Regatta, a most popular fixture with Dubliners, takes place in that part of the bay which faces this eastern end of Clontarf, necessarily bounded by the Bull Wall. In a field near the Tramway Company’s Station is the pond called Crab Lake and the slight eminence sloping down to it called Conquer Hill.

The view southward from any height in Fingal or the north side of the city terminates in the Dublin Mountains. But the range is seen to peculiar advantage from Clontarf strand or the Bull Wall. In one direction the city appears with all its spires, towers and chimneys, Dublin Harbour and its shipping being nearest. The long South Wall and Poolbeg Lighthouse seem quite close by. All Dublin Bay, with Kingstown Harbour, occupies the foreground, and the Irish Sea stretches beyond. At one side are Howth and Ireland’s Eye. Looking to the opposite side the whole panorama of the Dublin Mountains displays itself. The nearer and higher hills may be distinguished on a clear day. Slievenabawnogue, Montpelier, with the ruins of Speaker Conolly’s shooting-lodge on top, Killakee, Cruagh, Tibradden, Kilmashogue and the Two and Three Rock Mountains are the most easily identified. To the left of these appear the Golden Spears, Carrickgollogan, marked by the chimney of Ballycorus Lead Mine on its summit, and farthest to the left Killiney with its three hills and two obelisks, one on the highest point erected in the hard year 1741; the smaller and lower at Ballybrack marking the spot where John Sackville, the fourth Duke of Dorset, was killed hunting on the 14th of June, 1815, at the early age of 21.

The Bull Wall, which, with the South Wall, confines Dublin Harbour, was erected nearly ninety years ago. This long pier was meant to quicken the speed of the ebbing tide and make the Liffey current run with greater force in narrower limits. It has undoubtedly done much towards lessening the disadvantage of Dublin Bar to the Port, by freeing the channel from obstacles and creating a smooth and straight approach to the Harbour. The extreme portion of this breakwater is very rudely constructed. From shore to point it is now not far from two miles long. A lighthouse terminates it and the beacons and buoys of Dublin Port are all within sight of it. It has long been a favourite bathing place with Dubliners, but has lately become more of a promenade, for which it is well adapted. Its bridge spans the narrow ribbon of sea which flows between Dollymount and the North Bull, and is called Crablake Water, formerly Raheny Lake.

Ordnance Survey Maps give the name of Cold Harbour to the angle between the Coast Guard Station and the shore at Seafield Avenue, but maps of a century ago apply this name to the inland pond of Crab Lake in the field between Seafield Avenue and the. shore road. The North Bull is an island of great extent, being about two miles long and more than three hundred and eighty-five acres in extent. The part near the bridge belongs to Lord Ardilaun and the farther part to the Howth family. The greater portion of it is only about a century old. The Coast Guard Station and Golf Club House serve to dispel the idea of solitude it naturally calls up.

This sandy island is covered with a poor marine vegetation and frequented by sea-birds. On the eastern, or side next the open sea, is a beautiful smooth strand strewn with shells, particularly with the long smooth double one of the razor-fish. It is a great advantage to Dubliners to have such a beach within easy distance by tram of the centre of the city. The North Bull and its pier are sure to share in the growing popularity of Clontarf.

Continuing the tram road from the Bull Wall entrance, Dollymount is reached. This was a separate village some years ago, but a great number of new houses have been built, and it is now almost connected with Clontarf. The name appears as that of a separate country seat in a book of reference a little more than 70 years old. Crablake Water, the ribbon of permanent sea before alluded to, flows in front of Dollymount, where many pleasure boats are kept. This ribbon connects the part of Dublin Harbour which is always covered, even at the lowest tides, with the open sea at Howth, and is largely maintained by three streams which discharge their waters into it, the little Naniken River, flowing out through St. Anne’s, the Santry River coming down from Raheny, and the stream at whose mouth was the Whip of the Water.

Dollymount proper may be said to lie between Sea-field Avenue and Blackbush Lane. Visitors will find a convenient Hotel here. At one end of Dollymount is Baymount Castle, a handsome castellated suburban house. The wall and gate lodge are also battlemented. There was a fine row of old elms by the wall in the Green Lane behind it. The Castle is now a School, but 70 years ago it was the residence of Dr. Traill, Protestant Bishop of Down and Connor. More than half a century ago it was the seat of one of the earliest Loreto Convents, but Mrs. Ball, the foundress of the Order abandoned the foundation owing to a destructive fire which broke out here.

Some place-names in Dollymount are worthy of attention. The little old avenue called Telledan has a name appearing on various maps at various dates as Telladan, Telleden and Tellendon. Its origin appears to be unfathomable. Lakeview is so called from the view of Crablake Water, but the first syllable would have spoiled the name. Hassendean is the more correct form of the word familiar to many in Scott’s song, *Jock O’Hazeldean. *A name disappeared here a few years ago which might have been spared. It was evidently conferred by an admirer of Tennyson. This was Enid Cottage, called after Enid the Good, one of the best of the heroines of the Arthurian legends.

Just beyond Dollymount is St. Anne’s, the residence of Lord Ardilaun. There is no finer demesne within an equal distance of the metropolis, whether as regards extent or beauty. It has been in possession of the Guinness family for upwards of 70 years. The name of a townland here is Blackbush or Heronstown, and the demesne bore both of those names formerly as well as that of Thornhill. Old maps mark it Heronstown and D’Alton refers to it as “Blackbush, the seat of Mr. Guinness.” Sir Benjamin Guinness bestowed its present worthier name on this estate in 1837 probably from the ancient holy well of St. Anne which is included within its limits.

Blackbush Lane, which skirts the southern boundary wall of St. Anne’s, has recently been named Mount Prospect Avenue, from the house of Mount Prospect, occupied as an auxiliary by the North William Street Orphanage of the Sisters of Charity. From this road the Green Lanes may be entered at their eastern extremity, or Raheny may be reached by Wade’s Lane.

Continuing on the road to Howth beyond St. Anne’s, Watermill Road is passed. At the end of this road, which leads to Raheny, is Watermill Bridge over the mouth of the Santry River. A little before this Naniken Bridge is crossed where the little Naniken River discharges its waters. A little farther on, at a point where an inland road meets the tram-road, a third little stream flows in. This spot is called The Whip of the Water. There was a stone built into a house at Watermill Bridge, bearing the letters C.E. (Civitas Eblana) to show that this was the boundary of the city of Dublin. That point was not conceded by the owners of property here; and, even under the Boundaries Act, the limits of Dublin still fall a little short of this locality.

The road passes a low flat district, of which the land is salt-marsh, and the only interesting object is the ruined church of Kilbarrack, once called the Chapel of Mone, belonging to St. Mary’s Abbey and afterwards to Howth. It was the chapel formerly of the people who went “down to the sea in ships.” The churchyard adjoining is chiefly notable as the burying-place of Francis Higgins, called from an early incident in his career the Sham Squire. He was a somewhat unscrupulous adventurer who managed to obtain a questionable political prominence in Dublin in the last troubled years of the eighteenth century. But his career and his burying-place were becoming alike forgotten when both leaped into sudden prominence less than half a century ago by the publication of the very interesting *Sham Squire *of the late Dr. William John Fitzpatrick. One amusing testimony to the great success and popularity of the book was the transfer of the historic nickname from Higgins to the amiable author.

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