Rockbrook, Glendoo and Glencullen

CHAPTER XV

Starting from Rathfarnham, we take the road through Willbrook and Ballyboden, small hamlets in semi-ruinous condition, with the Owen Dugher flowing on the right, and at length reach Billy’s Bridge, rebuilt and widened some 20 years ago. No record survives as to the identity of the individual who has been commemorated in the title of this structure, but it is possible that the name may be an irreverent abbreviation for “King William’s Bridge.” Along the river bank under the trees is a track called “The Ghost’s Walk,” enjoying the local reputation of being haunted.

Leaving the bridge on our right, and keeping straight ahead past a row of cottages sheltered by lofty trees, we presently enter Edmondstown, a village of modern growth, which probably originated with the cloth mill established here early in the last century. As we leave the village, we pass the national school, situated on the very edge of the stream and at the foot of a steep ascent, where cyclists generally dismount and walk the rest of the way to Rockbrook.

Mount Venus, embosomed in its woods, now comes into view on the right, and as we reach the higher portion of the road, to the north will be seen the flat expanse of country extending away towards the County Meath, while on the coast are Howth, Sutton, Clontarf, the Poolbeg and the Pigeonhouse I with its tall red chimney. West of the city are the Phoenix Park, readily identified by the wide green expanse of the Fifteen Acres, the Liffey valley, beyond that Dunsink Observatory, and in the distance the hill of Garristown surmounted by its square ruin.

The village of Rockbrook, like Edmondstown, is of recent date, and was originally built to accommodate the employees of the various mills which existed in this locality in more prosperous times. Very little of the original village now remains in a habitable condition, and the people are gradually leaving it for the new cottages which are rapidly springing up in the vicinity. Yet the site is a healthy and well chosen one, and it is to be hoped that as the older houses fall into decay they will be replaced by new ones, so that this picturesquely-named village shall not wholly disappear.

Passing Mutton Lane branching off on the left to Larch Hill and Whitechurch, we reach the police barrack, a building with projecting eaves, under which the swallows have built their nests for many years past, returning year after year. A few hundred yards further will be seen on the right, two massive stone pillars and a stile, forming the entrance to what appears to be a private road, but is really the old military road, constructed after 1798, and subsequently altered to its present route by Billy’s Bridge, Stocking Lane, and Mount Venus.

Immediately to the right, inside the entrance to this old road, lies the ancient churchyard of Cruagh, surrounded by a high wall, and now closed as a burial place. It contains a number of very old tombstones, some of which, made of granite, are so worn and weather-beaten as to be almost illegible. Small portions of the end walls of the church remain, and adjoining is a strongly built, low tower, so close to the site of the old edifice that it is impossible to believe that it can have existed during the period when the church was in use. The appearance of the masonry would also suggest that this building is of much later date, and portions of it bear evidences of comparatively recent repair. An iron-plated door leads into a low arched chamber some feet below the level of the ground, while above is a similar apartment entered by an upper door, to which there is no access.

According to local tradition this curious structure was originally erected as a watch-house or shelter for the guards, who were necessary in the olden time to protect the graveyard from body-snatchers.

A short descent now leads to a bridge over the Owen Dugher, whose murmuring song has accompanied us the whole way from Rathfarnham, and whose rocky bed doubtless suggested the name for the village of Rockbrook. From this bridge the cyclist must walk the whole way to the summit level - a distance of nearly a mile and three-quarters through the woods, which completely overshadow the road for a considerable portion of the valley and extend high up the mountain slopes enclosing it. The locality, however, is so beautiful that the visitor need not regret the fuller opportunity which the walk will afford him of observing his surroundings.

Shortly after entering the wood, we cross by a bridge to the opposite side of the ravine, and turn to the left up a short steep ascent overlooking the bridge and stream below, which make a pretty picture in the winter time, but are shut off from view by the dense foliage in summer.

Almost within a stone’s throw of the preceding one we meet another bridge, which was badly damaged by the floods some years ago, and was the scene of a sad cycling fatality in the early days of that pastime when brakes were all but useless. The unfortunate cyclist was riding one of the old high machines down the hill towards this bridge with his hind wheel brake hard on, when the cable snapped and the machine ran away with him. He ran against the grassy wall on the right, perhaps deliberately, in the hope of saving himself, but was dashed with fearful force against the stone parapet and instantly killed. A rude cross in the masonry is intended to commemorate this tragic incident.

This bridge is a favourite subject for artists and photographers, although the felling of some fine trees which formerly stood beside it has somewhat detracted from its picturesque appearance.

A straight stretch of road bordered with bracken, and shaded by firs and larches, leads to the top of the glen, where the Owen Dugher, here a small moorland stream, comes plashing and tumbling through a little ravine down the side of Cruagh Mountain. The slopes over this stream are noted for their abundant growth of fraughans or whortleberries in the early autumn.

A few hundred yards beyond this point is the summit level of the valley - interesting as forming here the watershed between the basins of the Dodder and the Bray rivers - and if the streams on the roadside here are closely examined, it will be seen that their waters, though apparently continuous, really divide, and flow in opposite directions.

The country now becomes wilder and more rocky; the pinewoods continue along the heights to the left, and here and there may be seen some recently planted shrubs of that gaudy exotic, the rhododendron, whose brilliant blaze of tropical splendour contrasts harshly with the subdued tints of our native landscapes. Strange to say, the rhododendron seem to be disliked by every form of animal life; so much so, that any plantation dominated by it is shunned by birds, flies, and insects of every description, while it is, perhaps, the only shrub which is proof against the nibbling teeth of the rabbit.

As we pass the last clump of the pines, the road sweeps slightly to the left, and, emerging suddenly from the close defile, we enter upon an open valley, with wide wastes of moorland and rough marsh pasture, interspersed with the humble homesteads of the cottiers who inhabit this wild and inhospitable region. In front will now be seen the long, flattened form of Bray Head, to the right of that the Little Sugar Loaf; and presently the conical top of the Great Sugar Loaf, over the side of the mountain known as Prince William’s Seat. Some short distance further will be observed at the opposite side of the valley, a couple of diminutive, red-roofed cottages nestling beneath the friendly shelter of a pine plantation, and appearing at that distance like a pair of painted toy houses placed on the hillside.

The road, now sweeping to the left, brings us within view of the southern slope of the Two Rock Mountain, with the rocks conspicuously showing near its summit, and after passing in succession the remains of the hamlets of Ballybrack and Brockey, we enter the village of Glencullen, where the turn on the right conducts us to Glencullen bridge. Before descending the steep hill, on the left will be seen Carrickgollogan and the more distant hills of Dalkey and Killiney, while in front lies the richly-wooded valley in which is concealed the pretty village of Enniskerry. At this point cyclists will do well to dismount, as the hill leading down to the bridge is probably the steepest in the whole county, and would severely tax even the most powerful of brakes. At the bottom of this long descent is Glencullen bridge, spanning the Glencullen river, which, in consequence of the broken and mountainous character of the district through which it passes, is very liable to sudden floods. Along the left bank a rough pathway leads to Enniskerry, but it is rather difficult in parts, and, having been closed at the Enniskerry end, is not to be recommended.

Having crossed Glencullen bridge into the County Wicklow, we must patiently toil up a long ascent to where the road - a rather rough one - crosses a high ridge of land commandingextensive views of the surrounding mountains, with the higher summits of Douce and Maulin in front, and Bray Head and the sea to the left. About a mile and a half from the bridge we reach the main road from Glencree to Enniskerry, entering the latter village by a descent so steep that cyclists, unless their brakes are in the best of order, had better walk down it. The return journey may be made as desired through the Scalp or by Bray and the Stillorgan road home.

As an alternative to the round by Enniskerry - rather long for pedestrians - the return might be made by turning to the left at Glencullen along the Ballyedmonduff road, which, after ascending the heights over Glencullen, skirts the eastern slopes of the Two Rock and Three Rock Mountains at a great elevation, affording extended views of the Bay and coast, At a distance of a mile and three-quarters from Glencullen cross-roads, we reach a somewhat sharp turn in the road) where, turning to the left up the hill, we at length come into view of the scattered village of Barnacullia, with the city and suburbs in the distance below, and Kingstown and its harbour away on the right. A mile and a half beyond this, we reach Tiknock cross-roads, whence the return to the city may be made either by Dundrum or Rathfarnham.

Distances: - Rathfarnham to Glencullen cross-roads, 8 miles; Glencullen cross-roads to Enniskerry, 3¼ miles; Enniskerry to Bray Bridge, 3¼ miles; Enniskerry to Nelson’s Pillar *via *Dundrum, 12¾ miles; Bray Bridge to Nelson’s Pillar *via *Stillorgan and Donnybrook, 12½ miles; Glencullen cross-roads *via *Ballyedmonduff to Dundrum, 5¾ miles, or to Rathfarnham, 7 miles.

To Chapter 16. To Neighbourhood Index. Home.